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Basket not spinning, smelled melted rubber
Replacing the clutch was easy but unfortunately did not fix the washing machine. I couldn't get the agitator loose at first, but it came loose when I unbolted the motor and transmission assembly. After replacing the clutch and reassembling the motor, I tilted the washer back up and found that the basket in the center under the agitator was cracked all the way around and that was why it wasn't spinning. It was also why the clutch was burning--trying to spin a basket that wasn't centered in the drum anymore. This washer is over 25 years old, so I decided not to replace the basket, since a replacement is about $400. A good attempt at an inexpensive repair, but unsuccessful.
Water continued to drip in tub after load finished.
Kenmore 11027721600 washers repair & replacement parts
Part Number WP3979346 replaces: 3979346, 3979347, 8578342, WP3979346VP.
Post drip from water inlet To replace the inlet solenoid valve/thermistor assembly: Unplug the washer. Turn the water off and unscrew the hoses from the inlet. Use a putty knife to release the control panel (slide the putty knife under the front corners to release the clamps on the control panel). Pull the panel out of the way and pop out the two retaining clips that hold the back of the machine to the cabinet. They are located under the control panel. Remove the mounting screw from the valve assembly (1/4-inch driver). Pull the back away from the cabinet far enough to remove the valve, but don't let the wires get cut. Disconnect the wires. To unplug the solenoid connectors, lift the long tab with a screwdriver. Disconnect the water outlet hose. Connect the wires and hose to the new valve assembly. The red connector goes to the hot water valve. The thermistor wires (the two individual connectors) can be connected to either terminal. It does not matter if they are reversed. Put the valve back in place and install the screw. Hook up and turn the water on. Plug in the machine and test the valve. Unplug the power and reinstall the back and the control panel. The back-to-cabinet clips can be snapped back in place easily.
First time .Replace the clutch .miss placed one of the retainer clip .found it after the replacement came .It was in the fold at the base of the machine.
Well, after resolving Part Select (PS) shipping issues (PS sent me two refrigerator glass shelves instead of a Tub Spring); And as it turns out they sent me the wrong part for the suspension pads, which I have returned for credit. It takes 3-4 weeks to obtain your credit BTW.
Well after removing the cabinet, agitator, wash basket, plastic tub, all 5 springs, & pump suction line, I was able to access the Tub wear pads and suspension pads. As it turns out the suspension pads looked good. Thank God, as PS had sent wrong parts. I replaced the wear pads, the 5 springs, and reversed the disassembly process. Took about 6 hours. But washer works fine now, still vibrates, but does not walk across floor any more.
Knob broke off load size indicator. It was getting almost impossible to turn . Washer wasn’t filling correctly.
Removed 2 screws on backside of control panel. I gave old part a quarter turn and it came right off . Took existing hose and attached to new part . Replaced screws and ran through a wash cycle, worked perfectly, like it originally did . Simple repair. Only issue was the shipping, but not On PartSelect part. Could have been an overnight shipping but got caught in the FedEx vortex and ended taking a trip around the country for 5 days . I will order again from PartSelect , fair prices and great selection.
Pump requires 2 retainers. I had 1 good retainer on the top and little tension on the bottom.
Pull the washer out away from the wall and tip back. I used a small metal ammo box to hold up the washer. The bottom pump retainer is easy reach and remove with a flat screwdriver. I was able to pry off with my hand. Replace retainer insert into slots on drive motor and twist. I used a pair of Channellock pliers to lift retainer while pressing along the side till it snaped into place. Remove the support box and put washer back. Then tip washer forward to reset self-leveling mechanism.
The dispenser that I purchased 1 year ago broke (flaw in plastic part, I think)
My washer is an Amana He, but the part is made by Whirlpool, I think. I just set the new part on the middle agitator in the washer and pushed it firmly down and it snapped into place. It was amazingly EASY!!!!!!!
Washing machine was very loud and walked across the floor
It was a miracle. We were going to get rid of the washing machine because it made so much noise and rattled the whole house. It also 'walked' across the room with every load. I simply replaced the wear pads (2 of them were already worn away), and now it is as quiet as when it was new. AMAZING!
The washer would drain, but was screaming while doing nothing else.
The tough part was replacing the front cabinet. I did consult the video for help on replacing the clutch spring. Thank you for that bit.
I admit to taking too much apart, most of the cabinet back can be left alone. Some of the plastic wire keepers/routers suffered, as well as the console hinges.
The newly reassembled washer works without a hitch, and truely it took me about 4 hours over several days to dissamble and reassemble. It is louder in the audible range than before, but very serviceale for another 20 years, saints willing.
Shut off water and unplugged electricity. Removed hoses, have some thing to catch water in the hoses. Remove the screws that hold the back cover on the controls panel, and the cover for the electrical cord, you do not have to do anything else with the cord. Remove the 2 screws that are holding the top of the washer to the back panel and slide the top forward an inch or two until it comes loose in the front. Hold onto lt glass top door a lift it up until you can see the silver metal spring clips that hold the controls panel/ cover in place, with a screw driver press the clips back and lift them up a little bit and this will allow you to move the controls panel forward a half inch and the tabs will release and you can tip the cover forward and this exposes the water valve, there are 5 electrical connections on this valve were I to do this again I might order the wiring loom for the valve at the same time that way you would not have to use the small sharp pick to work the connectors loose and reinstall them on the new valve. Replacing the valve was easy as there are only two screws holding it on. Pull up on the valve and it is off. Make sure all three of the gaskets /prong seals are lined up before you press down on the valve to install it, install the two screws before you plug in the electrical, it makes it easier to tighten the screws. Plug the connectors back onto the valve, 4 on the top of valve on under it and reassemble the washer.
I loosened 2 Phillips screws on back side of washer control head.Then I pulled forward on each side of head and it moved about an inch.It came free from the machine so I could access the switch.Then unplugged the old switch rotated the switch it came free put new switch in rotated new switch in how the old switch was plugged wiring harness back on swith.Then put the washer head back on 2 screws back.Done.Side note unplug washer and turn water off before installing parts.
