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Machine made loud banging noise and vibration when running and tub ran off center
Disassembled top control console and surrounding sheet metal cabinet per the video from this site. i then used a screw driver to carefully pry up each wear pad location individually and inserted the wood wedge. to about 1 1/2 inch height. rwmoved the old wear pads and popped in the new pads one by one. Closed up the unit and tested the machine . It ran like new. No more noise or viberation
We had to take the motor off and find the part that holds the spring, took longer to fix as we are older people and took a brake after every spring. We used YouTube videos to help us I am thankful for this site and cheap prices.
I disconnected the water lines and pulled the washing machine over so it was lying on its front. I removed two screws on the bottom edge of the back, and then puzzled over how to get the back off. I ended up removing the screws that held the control panel on, removing the wiring harness, and taking the control panel/head off. This exposed two metal clips that I was able to unhook. I unhooked the water valve from the back, disconnected the electrical connections, removed the water line, and replaced the valve. Then I puzzled about how to put it back together for a bit, and basically just reversed the order I took it apart.
washer wouldn't come on, power turned on but no action
removed the top cover (with all the knobs on it) by releasing the holds in the back removed the screw holding the lid in place pinched the snap and removed the part
pinched the snap on the new one and seated in in the hole screwed in the screw (lol) turned on the washer
I had to find a point of reference first since item came apart in wash cycle and internal pieces fell out - thank goodness for YOUTUBE. Another guy was thoughtful enough to do a video on how the assembly came apart / went back together - a huge help for sure. Actual repair was less than a half hour after obtaining new part and seeing video. The 12 year old washer works like brand new - saving me close to 1,000 dollar replacement charges.
tub shaking so bad washer would walk away from the wall
the tube when spinning the tub would shake so bad the washer would walk away from the wall but it will not happen anymore since I put the new spring on it runs great and this is not my first rodeo. Removed the outer part to timer controls then removed two screws then shell in front came off the body
Removed housing, using pry bar lifted plate used screwdriver removed wear pads one at a time. inserted new ones and snapped into place. Did not have to remove tub. Be sure pry bar does not slip and you pinch your fingers. Machine works just fine know.
Went on-line for help.found parts select website.referred to your service videos.discovered solution to problem.bought proper part.arrived in excellent condition.watched another video for how to install the part.completed repair in about one hour.washer operating back to normal again. this site is a one stop answer/parts shop. thank you .
Loud bang at the end of the spin cycle and symptoms of an unbalanced load.
After reading everyone elses stories, I purchased all new springs(5), new spring brackets(one of mine was rusted really badly)and all new wear pads(two sets of 3pcs each). The rusted spring bracket was the most time consuming as the screw was rusted into the bracked so I had to drill it out. Other than that, the actual spring replacement was easy. Took maybe 10 minutes. The wear pads were another story. I'm a pretty good mechanic and I had a bit of a struggle getting the old pads out. I used a long, flat head screwdriver to pry them out. Once they were out the new ones weren't too tough to get back in. Took about 20 minutes all together. I stongly recommend watching the video on removing the washer cabinet first. It will save you some time. Acutally, watch the videos on all of the parts to simplify the process. Oh and by the way, all of my washer problems are gone. Well worth my time and $70 in parts. Good web site!
Ordered drain hose extender. It uses a rubber flange with hose clip to attach to washer's plastic hose. When tightened, the hose clip crushes the plastic hose and crimps it, causing a leak. My solution was to find a copper pipe flange that was the same diameter as the interior of the plastic hose to act as a bushing for the plastic hose. The hose clip could then be tightened without deforming the hose. Worked great with no leaks.
The water level pressure switch was damaged, read the instructions on how to change it and without hesitation it was changed and working like a champ. Love the fact of how easy the site is to order and receive your products.
Tried to follow videos. Couldn't figure how to raise top. Laid machine on front used pliers to unclip bracket and clips holding hose. Took 10 minutes to work it this way.
First,I checked all of the electrical connectors for continuity. Ev eryone of them checked OK. I had watched a tutorial on you tube that stated the problem with the inlet valve could be mechanical as well as electrical. The tutorial did state that you could take the valve apart to clean it but it wasn't recommended due to the probability of it leaking after re assembly. I ordered a new one since this unit is 20 years old. It took 10 minutes to change out the valve once I got the top/ front of the washer off Once everything was in place I plugged it in set in on the wash mode and I had water in the tub again!
