JGBP85BEJ2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

openend stove top disconnected wire pushed out old sparker inserted new one closed lid game over

Removed the two screws put the heat shield off the old one onto the new one put new bottom in and tightened two screws. Done #38. 69 Cost of part with shipping cost included.

The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)

Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two hex head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.

Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.

Pull plug and shut off gas! The lower oven burner is held in with two rear and one front screws. I removed the top floor of the oven (two hand tightened screws at the back), the bottom drawer, and the front door (just lift it off the hinges). This allowed me to access the burner, and I removed it by unscrewing the three screws, unhitching the igniter connector, and lifting the burner and igniter up and out. I connected the new igniter on the new burner before installing it in the oven, and found that the connector did not match (I was warned about this possibility on the PartSelect site), but instead of splicing the wires together, I cut off the connector on the new igniter and replaced it with the connector of the old igniter. Then I screwed the burner into the oven, recoupled the connector, replaced the floor, drawer, and door, and I was done! It took about 45 minutes.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

First I removed the oven door handle from the inside by removing the 2 screws. The screws have standard hex heads. You need to be careful you don't strip them. Once you remove the 2 screws for the handle the outside frame for the door will come away from the oven. You then need to remove the frame by unscrewing 2 screws at both the bottom left and bottom right corners of the door. Once you remove these, the exterior door frame will come away from the oven. The replacement glass actually sits on the outside of the frame. You simple need to slide it up into the top edge of frame. There are little grooves that hold it at the top. Once you have it in place, slide the bottom edge of the glass into the grooves on the bottom of the front door. Replace the 2 screws at the bottom right and left corner and then tighten the screws for the handle on the inside of the oven door and you're done. Pretty simple really.

Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.

determined that the top of the burner was melted and malformed. Repair was simple: lifted off the damaged burner and slipped the new one in place.

removed two screws and took out bottom tray and put the new one in and replaced the screws.DId it my self.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Very simple repair with no tools required. Turn off power to stove. Remove grates, remove burner, pull old Top Burner Spark Electrode up being careful not to jerk it up hard - wiggle if necessary, unplug wire from old electrode, plug wire into new electrode making sure it fits snug - if not, squeeze it closed a little at a time until it fits snug, push new igniter into place being careful not to force it and crack the ceramic body. Install burner being careful not to damage the electrode, Install grates. Turn power back on and test to make sure it works. It took me all of 15 minutes to change 2 burner spark electrodes. The only bad thing about this repair is that the shipping costs as much as the parts.

1) Turn off power at circuit breaker panel
2) Slide out Range from wall
3) Unplug Range
4) Remove back panel and unplug electrical connections to socket
5) From front of oven, remove glass cover over old oven light bulb and remove flange that holds socket and bulb
6) Remove old socket from mounting flange and discard.
7) Place new socket into mounting flange
8) Screw mounting flange and new socket into the oven from front. Reattach electrical connections from back.
9) Screw in new light bulb from front
10) Replace existing glass cover over new light bulb and snap wire holder in place
11) Replace back panel
11) Plug in range
12) Slide range back to original position
13) Turn on power
Works like a charm! Thanks for having the parts after 30 years!

Took longer to open the box.

Just put it on. Quite proud of myself for figuring out what and how to get the part however! The website was very helpful.