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would not make ice
removed 3 screws and power wire clip, removed old ice maker, reinstalled new ice make by snaping in power wire clip and the 3 screws that hold ice maker, reinstalled wire bracket/arm that stops ice maker once tray is full of ice. done
First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.
This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.
Resistance on solenoid for water to ice maker measured low (5 ohms). I assumed the coil insulation had degraded because there was almost a short with such low resistance. Replaced the water inlet valve kit and ice maker filled with water and everything worked great. I had to cut the ends of the hoses because my model use compression fittings and this new valve kit used the push on fittings. No leaks no problems. The cables plugged in the opposite direction from the old valve kit, so I had to re-route the cable a little and create slack by removing from 1 cable clamp.
Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.
The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.
ice cubes, but no water...drips under freezer door
A service man who came to the house for another job said it was common for one solenoid on the inlet valve to fail while the other still worked, which explained why it would refill the ice maker but not dispense water. It was easy enough to unscrew the old valve from the frig frame and unscrew the and the tubing. The valve is oriented a little differently, but there was still room for it and enough tubing to reach the connections. Seems to me colors for the new water/ice controls were not exactly the same, so I would make a note of them (by following the tubing) when you disconnect them. The newer style push-in connectors were easy to hook up once I trimmed the a half inch or so from the end that had been crimped by the older compression fittings. Once I started using the water again, the occassional small puddles of water under the freezer door hinge disappeared. I was told this can happen when you stop using the water, and the water remaining in the tube that runs up thru the freezer door can freeze and thaw, producing a sweat that runs down the tube and out the hinge.
'Frig door made a popping sound when opening and closing.
Removed upper hinge cover and hinge, lifted door from lower hinge socket, removed lower cam from 'frig hinge, and replaced with new. I had a helper hold the 'frig door while I removed old upper cam, and replaced with new. Piece of cake and works like new! This must be a design problem..
Refrigerator and freezer was not "working " ,ice machine not working.
Removing the panels inside the freezer section was the most difficult ,because it is narrow,hard to fit your body inside compartment, in order to cut wires and to splice Bi-metal Defrost Thermostat wires (2 ) Watch the videos on the web site so you know where to start. First time I ever "repaired " a large appliance, saved me over $ 600.00 (that's what the people I bought the Refrigerator from wanted to charge me.) My parts cost 65.00 !!!!! My younger brother turned me onto the web site... , I'll be returning to the site and telling my friends about it. It's a total "rip off" what service organizations charge the general public these days from Car Dealer ships to the stores we purchase our appliances from. !!! Glad I still have my health and faculties to repair the essentials we have around our homes. !!!!
Refrigerator quit cooling, freezer defrosted making a huge mess in kitchen floor
First, verified power supply. I have power at wall outlet, no power at compressor. Also noticed no condenser fan operation. Searched YouTube and watched a few diagnostic videos of how to test for proper operation of my model. Dropped the control panel down to reveal the thermostat switch and control board. Wiggled thermostat knob and compressor would work intermittently. Thermostat bad internally. Removed wiring connections, removed cover over temp.probe. slowly removed capillary tube. Removed plastic sheath from tube. Take your time installing new capillary tube into plastic sheath as not to kink and damage tube. Route the new tube back into position that the old one was in. Reinstall covers. NOTE: My wiring terminals on the new switch were in different locations but the switch was the same dimensions. I used a multi-meter to determine the correct wire locations on new switch and installed. Reconnected power and all works well now.
Removed ice bin then pulled front cover with nut driver . Pull small rod from side ( one screw holding rod and spring). Pull auger out. Take plastic nut off end ( CLOCKWISE) LEFT HAND THREAD. Keep all ice crusher blades in order when you pull them off. Install new auger and reverse steps. web site has exploded view. It looks difficult but it isn't.
Remove the unit cover by unsnapping from the bottom. Remove the face plate on the switches. The ice door simply snaps off the closing mechanism. The problem I have is that the original door included a heat trace element (keeps the back of the door warm to limit condensation). The new part was simply a new seal. I clipped the leads to the het trace (turn off the fridge before you do that) and put in the new door. When the heat ids on in the house there is no problem with condensation but on warmer days its pretty bad. I cannot find a replacement part with the heating element and have contacted Whirpool. THey haven't responded as of yet.
door was making a poping sound upon opening and closing
First I removed all contents from inside refrigerator door.Then I removed (1) 10mil screw,which holds cover for top hinge.Next I removed the (3) hinge screws,and lifted door off of bottom hinge.Pulled off plastic closure cam from bottom metal hinge post.I cleaned metal post ,applied a small amount of vaseline to post, slid on new plastic cam,installed door, replaced screws.Very easy,10 to 15 min tops.
Removed screws from front of ice container,replaced drum. The hardest part was assembly of ice crusher,lucky the arms were lettered as to how they went back together.
