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Ice Door broken letting warm air into Ice Maker system which kept freezing up.
I didn't have to buy a new Ice door kit. The part on the Refrig. door I needed I found out was unavailable. The door parts (Ice door parts and the asembly for the water unit) screws into that part. I found out that I would have to replace the whole refrig. door which was $900.00. I took every apart got me some pvc glue used it on the door and bought the original screw online with some other assorted parts,Door switch, etc. and was able to repair in about an hour. Some of the parts are very fraigle so you have to be very careful or you will be buying some new replacement parts.The new nickel and dime parts are expensive. My Icemaker was leaking where the Ice was clumping together in the bin, and when I checked the unit was $125.00. I found a new one and replaced it for about half that price. I am now very happy! (a least until the next project.)
hardest part was getting up the nerve to pull front cover because it is plastic afraid i would brake it pull from bottom and lift up one screw holds old door inplace uplug electric new door doesn't have electric that it.
Pry open the front dispenser outer cover. Remove a screw holding ice door dispenser unit, remove old door chute, remove and place coil kind of stuff (connecting to panel) old chute to new one and reinstall.
I followed your instructions , the only thing that was left out was that the freezer has a drain hole that had to be thawed out with a hair dryer,till the water went to the drain pan underneath the ref. your instruction were through enough, that's why I purchased the part from your company, I installed the part 2 days ago and its working like new again 23.00 for the part instead of 1200.00 dollars for another ref. thanks very much. 6 months ago I purchased the relay and compressor starter from your company at that time per your instructions I shook the compressor starter and like a light bulb it had something broke inside,I needed that thanks again oomk
Contacted sears home service to perform repair. Quote for repair was $307. 43. ( $196. 90 For labor ,$102. 58 For part) plus $75. 00 For service call. Based on the charge, I refused the repair and ordered the appropriate part from "part select" (733947) (wpl 8201515) motor module for a cost of $81. 84. To my surprise, the part arrived the next day and in 15 minutes the icemaker was in a position to make ice, and has been producing ice ever since. To perform the module replacement, I had to remove one screw with a nutdriver, pull the icemaker out, disconnect a wire harness, replace the module and do the reverse procedure to complete the installation. I saved a total of $225. 59 By doing this repair myself. A lesson learned. . . . . I will always investigate doing a repair myself with the help from the people at part select. Very professional and they sent the correct part the first time.
Used a voltage meter to detect the problem (used a video from the web to determine how to isolate the problem. I needed to replace the unit, that I had repaired two years ago for $150.00 or more for parts an a service call. The part I ordered came right away and the repair took about 15 minutes.
The Icee ejector arm stopped turning due to icecube jam.
Not being a professional repair tech, I looked at this sites provided schematics of the ice-maker. I assumed due to the problem I had which parts to order. the parts arrived within 3 days and after I took the icemaker apart I quickly realized I ordered the wrong parts. I called and asked what to do. since I did not open the packaging for the "wrong" parts I was able to make a return. I then called back because I discoverd the part I really needed wasn't shown in the sketch. I was told that I needed to order a new motor and it would have the part I needed. I ordered the part and within 3 days it arrived. Once I had the new part I was able to quickly install. Now I have a icemaker that works better than new since ,now it does not seem to jam either.
To make the repair: First remove the 1/4" nut head screw on the under side of the ice maker. Remove the shroud covering the electrical connection. Slide out the maker and depress the locking clip. Disconect the electrical wires. Pull off the motor cover (no screws). Remove the three philips head screws from the motor housing. Gently remove the motor. Next loosen the screws and pull the "black motor-mounting harness" untill enough clearance to remove the ejector arm and deflector tray. The new kit will have a new ejector arm and deflector tray. Insallation is the reverse. The schematics were very helpfull. It was very simple and I saved a $150 service fee to have someone else do it for me. PS. When I called I was able to speak to real live Americans who were able to help me, were pleasant, polite, and professional, AND they did not treat me like I was stupid because I am not a professional repair man. I will definately use this service again. and recommend to all my DIY friends!!
1- remove the ice make assembly to check out the ice maker: remove 3 screws with a nut driver, and aplug the electrical connector 2- checked that the ice maker assembly was not fixable (visual inspection) 3- Ordered an ice maker for PartSelect, 4- got it 2 days later, reconnected the electrical connector and put the 3 screws back
Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed
When I took the pan out of the box, it was not the exact same as the one I had. But it fit perfect. The only hard part was the fact that it looked so good I had to clean the entire fridge side. (Smile)
Took off refrigerator door from top hinge and lifted off. A little difficulty getting worn out parts off (needed dremel to drill out worn plastic); replaced with new parts, the screw head holding on the part was starting to be worn as well but still worked. If I hadn't got to this repair soon the bottom of the door aluminum would have total worn out as it is, it has a deep groove but not noticeable. The new cams also force the door closed tight instead of slightly ajar at times.
