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Microwave wouldn't turn on and found breaker been tripped and then microwave wouldn't turn on at all.
Read some instructions and easily found the fuse. Replaced it. Still didn't work. Took control panel off to check door switches. Nothing I read mentioned a second fuse. Tested and it to had blown. Ordered another one. Popped them in. Done.
The hard part was trying to find the light bulb locally. The locally sold light bulbs were either too long, not dual element or not powerful enough. So I ordered the light bulb straight from PartSelect. When it came time to install the new light bulb I carefully removed the screw holding the plate in position so as not to loose it in my gas stove. I needed the mirror to line up the light bulb and screw it in. Once it was in I verified operation and closed up the plate being careful not to drop the screw into my gas stove. Problem solved.
Remove two screws from Vent Grille, one on either side, and remove one screw inside Vent Grille on right side. Pull Vent Grille off exposing the two Charcoal filters. Remove the two Charcoal filters by hand and replace with new ones. Reinstall the Vent Grille and tighten screws. That's it. I'm not handy (ask my wife) and if I can do it so can you.
BEWARE: KMHS120ESS takes two charcoal filters. This site doesn't tell you that! I only figured it out after ordering one, receiving it, and removing the vent cover to replace it. So then I had to order another one and pay for shipping a second time (which cost almost as much as the filter itself). C'mon PartSelect, why are these not sold in a pair?
Door close wasnt registering and the microwave wouldn't turn on.
I looked up a YouTube video of someone with a similar over the oven microwave. That helped me get into the area behind the control panel where the door switches are. I checked the springs and the cam rocker? The thing that actually hits the button on the switch when the door closes. They were in good condition so I assumed the door switch was bad. There are two so I just purchased one figuring (hoping) that only one was bad. And lo and behold only one was bad. Bing bam boom. Put it all back together and I'm set. Not too difficult. Took a week of work because it takes like 50 days to ship. My kitchen looked like a hurricane after image because of all the parts scattered everywhere.
Change broken 40W light bulb on Over-the-range Microwave
The original bulb came apart while unscrewing it from the back of the microwave, leaving the metal screw thread contact still in the socket. Since this is an over-the-range micriwave there isn't enough room to manuever needle nose pliers into the socket to remove the screw thread contact. So this is how we were able to remove it. Unplug power cord. Take a standard wine bottle cork and whittle down one end until it fits in the socket. Then, using a bit of pressure push the cork into the socket snd begin unscrewing the screw thread contact until it comes out of the socket. Works like a charm!
Socket for underside (over-the-cooktop) bulb apparently shorted
Got some info from the PartsSelect web site and a short YouTube video about how to replace the socket. (Even at 74 years old I'll be darned if I'll pay for a service call if I think I can do the repair myself). Unfastened all the panel screws, swung down the rear-hinged lower panel carefully, then took a couple of pictures showing which wires went to which side of the light socket -- and to the underside of the turntable because those pulled off by themselves when I lowered the panel). Pried off all the silicone sealer around the socket using my fingers, got the old socket out and replaced it, put the wires back in place, refastened the drop-down panel. It was a very easy, straight-forward task that would have taken <15 minutes were it not for the fact that my old eyes had trouble seeing all the screws, even with a flashlight. Everything works fine now.
Glass of burned out bulb broke leaving metal part in socket in microwave hood combo
Replaced bulb by: 1 pulling plug on microwave to make sure not hot - no power; 2 used needle nose pliers with head part about same size that fit inside of socket; 3 opened pliers and held firm against broken metal part; keeping pressure of pliers against broken metal part of light bulb, slowly unscrewed the broken part from socket using firmly held opened pliers. The rest was a cinch...just screwed in new light bulb, plugged in microwave and viola - there was light once again.
The display kept asking me to close the door, even though the door was closed. The interior light stayed on.
I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed in transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.
When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.
All seems to be working well now.
Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?