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Refrigerator would begin to lose it's cool and we saw ice caking on the bacjk panel of the freezer section.
We had to empty the freezing section, remove the 4 screws that held the back panel and defrost the coils. Then with the diagram we got from the internet, we removed the defroster and easily installed the new one and put the back panel back on. We did find later that it was still icing over so I ordered the thermostat and we installed it today. It too was easy to install. We spliced the wires and hooked the new thermostat to the old wires and reinstalled the back panel. Hopefully this will solve the problem for us now.
Cams on Hinge assembly broken, door didn't close properly
I supported door with 2* 6 scrap wood. I used cedar shingles to raise door to correct height. Using a socket wrench, I removed the hinge from the fridge and the cam assembly from the door. I installed the new hinge and cam using the shims thatwere behind the original parts. I removed the 2*6 supports and the door now works perfectly.
Shut off water and disconnected at factory joint at bottom hinge. Unplugged the electrical at the top hinge. Removed the door and installed new bottom hinge and cam assembly. Reinstalled the door and hooked water and electric back up. Part worked fine.
This repair replaced two riser cams - one attached to the bottom fridge hinge and one attached to the bottom of the door. The two cams mate together. So, don't just buy one cam, buy two. 1. Removed all contents off the inside of the door as well as the bins. 2. Unscrewed single screw holding plastic cover over top hinge. 3. Unscrewed 2 screws holding top hinge to the top of the door and removed the top hinge. 4. Pulled door up and off bottom hinge and layed on floor. 5. Removed plastic grill on bottom of fridge. 6. Removed 2 screws holding bottom hinge in place. 7. Using a vice to hold the hinge, I used a hacksw to cut through the rivet holding the riser cam to the hinge plate. 8. Used a small bolt & nut to secure the new riser cam to the hinge plate. 9. Reattached hinge plate to the bottom of the fridge. 10. On bottom of the door remove two screws holding riser cam to door. 11. Position new riser cam in place and reattach to bottom of door. NOTE: on my door, the metal SHIM that goes between the cam riser & door was also broken. I ordered the replacement SHIM but it turned out to be made of PAPER. So, I didn't bother putting it on. If the riser cam wears out again, I'll just replace it again. 12. Put door back on and secure the top hinge to the top of the fridge and you're done.
First I turned off the water supply. Then I removed the ice bin and the ice maker by removing 4 screws and 3 electrical connections. This allowed access to the evaporator fan which was not moving. To remove the evap fan I removed two screws that hold the fan bracket. The fan assembly now had to be pushed back and rotated to remove from hole. There are 3 electrical connections that have to be disconnected from the fan, one ground wire that also is connected to the fan bracket and 2 power connections. Installing the new fan was the reverse of the above except the power connections were in a different location and i had to use the extension wires provided with the new fan to have the length needed to make the connection.
Lets start with the hard part: Convince wife to get a couple of her girl friends to go to a movie and see the Reader,after that visit a cafe or pub (remembered years ago the English Patient). Drove to get a six pack,removed the back panel-2 min, set a hair drier to position, had a couple beers , removed the defrost heater unit 1 min. replaced it 1 min. back panel1 min,enjoyed the rest of the afternoon,finished the beer Killed two birds with one stone Zoltan L Petho
Removing gasket by pulling it back to expose 1/4" screws and replacing with the new one was easy. What was a HORROR- was that the new gasket doesn't seal against the door properly, and door doesn't want to close at all. to remedy this we had to put packing tape along the outer portion of the gasket all along the door to hold it donw, in order for the door to close. This is "possibly" becuase I overtightended the screws that hold the metal brace that holds down the gasket. Don't make this mistake and if you do, packing tape is the answer.
Pretty much self explanatory.Removed drawer and anything on top of glass shelf.Remove two screws holding on slide.Replace with new slide.Repeat on other side.Replace shelf and drawer.
Removed the cover for the evaporater coils and let them defrost. Then took the old heating element out by removing two screws on the bottom element and two screws on the top element. Unplugged it and removed it from the unit. Then repeated the reverse of the procedure, installing the new unit, no wires to splice only one plug and four screws.
Refridgerator quit cooling because the defrost element had burned out and the refridgerator coils were totally covered with ice.
I defrosted freezer. Removed cover from back of freezer. Removed screws from element disconected wires. I connected wires to new element installed screws and reinstalled cover.
This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!
Water line was broken at the bottom of the freezer door.
There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.
1. Unplug refrigerator or flip breaker to kill power to the refrigerator. 2. With hands, gently pull the bottom lip of the 3" X 11" face plate panel above the dispenser head. 3. Remove the 4 screws that are under the removed panel. 4. Tip the assemby down to reveal 2 plugs. 5. Gently pull the 2 plugs to disconnect. 6. Open the assembly to reveal the solenoid. 7. There are 3 screws at the base of the solenoid. The center screw attaches to the green ground wire. 8. Remove the three screws. 9. Observe: The bracket at the top of the solenoid unit tucks behind a 4th screw above the solenoid. You may need to loosen this screw to relesae the solenoid. 10.Unplug the yellow and red connector to the solenoid. It should not be totally free to remove. 11. Put the plunger into the solenoid. Note that the plunger has an opening to insert the white plastic trigger for the trap door. Make sure the trigger is inserted into this opening before reassembling. 12. Plug the yellow and red connector into the new solenoid. 13. Position the new solenoid to match the screw holes. The bracket at the top of the solenoid tucks under the 4th screw. Tighten as necessary. 14. Insert the green ground wire into the middle screw hole at the base of the solenoid and tighten. 15. Insert the two screws to either side of the ground wire and tighten. 16. Gently reconnect the two plugs. 17. Tip the assembly back into place making sure the trap door and hoses are lined up correctly. 18. Replace the 4 screws. 19. Snap the face plate back into place. 20. Turn on the power and give it a try!
I used other instructions provided by customers on the website. They were very useful.
This is the second time we replaced this unit. The first replacement failed within the one-year warranty period. I called customer service and they had a replacement part and refund for the previous part on its way immediately. Excellent service!
