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The door closing cam had broken up.
The old cam had broken and was on the floor. I ordered one new cam. I should have been told to order at least two, I did not know they worked in pairs. So I had to re-order, I ordersed four, I was able to see that the other (freezer door has cracked cams) door will soon need replacement of the cams. I had trouble installing the new part because the rivit also needed to ba replaced. I did a "Rube Goldgerg" to get the new part to sit properly. I drilled the hole open a little and forced the part into place. All is well. Thank you very much!
I was set to buy a new magnetic seal to hold the door closed, when I looked it up on PartSelect I saw the recommendation that the problem might be the door closing cam.. I check it with a mirror and sure enough the cam had broken and the door sagged about 1/4 inch. I then followed the instruction and removed the top hinge, lifted the door off and replaced the cam. I did need two and the one attached to the lower hinge had to be drilled out and a new screw and nut attached to hold the cam. It was simple to do, I would recommend selling the door closing cam be sold in pairs with a #10 1/2 inch long screw with lock nut.
40 year old refrigerator brittle light switch fell apart
with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP
- Remove drawer and cover being supported by this slide. - Remove front and back screws with the screw driver. - Replace the above removed screws using the new slide. - Replace drawer and cover. DONE
Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.
Left side bottom drawer rail (plastic) had broken causing the draw to remain open
I glued the old rail back together twice prior to resorting to ordering the the replacement drawer rail from parts direct. Don't bother glueing the old parts, just buy a new one. Keep the screws from the old drawer rail as new screws are not shipped with the replacement rail. Only took 10 minutes to replace the rail needing only a phillips screwdriver. Good as new.
plastic water line through bottom door hinge assembly
This problem applies only to replacement of the bottom hinge assembly on the FREEZER door. Repair of the other side, the non-freezer door, is quick and easy.
The problem with the freezer door hinge assembly is that a plastic tube goes right through the bottom hinge. It appears that this tube supplies water to the ice maker.
On our fridge, the door could not be removed to do the hinge replacement without disconnecting the plastic tube. There was a junction in the tube right next to the hinge, but the junction would not give, meaning it could not be pulled apart. It appeared to be permanently joined.
So we had to cut the tube with shears. Then the door could be lifted off and the hinge was replaced.
Then the question was how to reconnect the tube. We finally did this by trimming off the remainder of the junction and rejoining the two tube ends by taping them over with lots of duct tape after the tube had been threaded through the hinge. Fortunately there was enough slack in the tube to allow this trimming and taping.
With that done, the door was lifted back onto the hinge, the top hinge insert was replaced, and the job was done.
The duct tape union in the tube so far has not leaked and we don't think it will.
Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Evap fan failed, would need restarted by hand when weather warmed up
Repair was super simple. Everything was a direct fit. Hardest part was unloading freezer to access evap motor. My freezer was old making my wire shields very brittle so I cut the shielding and used heat shrink tubing for a neat clean repair.
