Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven would not ignite for BAKE. Gas would come on and igniter would "click" twice, then when burner did not light up gas went off.
Bought new igniter. Pulled stove from wall and turned off gas and disconnected power cord. Removed oven racks. Removed oven floor. Removed heat shield/dissipater thing. Removed 2 screws holding igniter to gas burner tube. Disconnected the wire (this was harder than expected because igniter had only a few inches slack in the wires), took off back to try to find better access to wires, no help there, door was not easily removable so difficult to reach in with 2 hands to pull wires apart, eventually I got it. Connected new wires. Replaced igniter to feeder tube with 2 screws. Plugged back in, turned gas back on and tested. Reassembled heat shield thing, oven floor, racks. Done.
dropped stove forward, handle broke and trim around it also broke.
Unsrewed what was left of the trim and oven handle. Just 4 screws total, then replaced the 2 screws of the trim and the 2 screws on handle. Finished! Replacement parts fit perfect!!! Thanks a milliion!
Remove three screws, slid old trim piece off door. Slid new trim in place. Used ice pick to align screw holes and replaced screws. Total time about 15 minutes. Tip: used a bead of silicone sealer on the new trim strip to prevent moisture from causing new strip to rust.
I just intalled the part, but the problem continued
I had problem with the oven of the stove since the beginning. It wa difficult to start. Later, it stoped working. The technician told m that the gas valve regulator was the problem. That was the reason I decided to buy a new one. After installing it, however, the problem continues. The ignition starts, but the gas does not go thru. It seems the signal does not go to the valve to open the gas.
Removed two screws holding the bottom in, pulled out old bottom, inserted new bottom, replaced screws and tightened them. Total time less than five minutes.
The Gas Safety Valve would not shut off. Gas conyinued to flow when oven switch was turned off.
Removed two gas lines at the safety valve. Removed the four mounting screws and disconnected the three wires. Re-assembled in reverse order of dis-assembly. This was an easy diagnosis and repair/replacement. The PartSelect website is very easy to use if you have the model number and I like the diagrams to be sure the part is correct.
very intermittent oven won't light. Can hear gas and spark but won't light when spark isn't at ignitor tip (shorting somewhere before the tip)
Remove; Bottom drawer- pull open and lift up slightly when fully open then pull the drawer the rest of the way out. Unplug ignitor terminal- there is a small tang inside the terminal end that needed pressed out of the small hole of the ignitor, with a pick. Oven racks. Oven bottom- 2 long phillips screws at the back. lift the back up 1st then the front comes up and out. Burner diffuser- 2 small phlilips at front (they only prevent the diffuser from sliding, they don't screw into anything). slide diffuser forward out of the notch then lift the front up. pull rear tabs out of the notches to completely remove. Ignitor- two 8mm (5/16) bolts holding ignitor to burner. pull ignitor out of guide holes. Reverse to install new ignitor.
I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate. This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!