Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
First I removed the four torx screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I installed the new element in reverse order. Recycled the cardboard box and the old element.
burner on electrics range was either off, or fully on
The burned control switch was not functioning. It took a while to find the range model number and then the part number of the switch. It was cool that I could see a picture of the part with the part number on the internet so that I was sure to buy the right part. Once the part arrived, I turned off the power to the range (circuit breaker, 220 V) removed two screws, used nut driver to disconnect switch handle, marked the 5 wires going to the switch, used the needle nose plier to remove the wires, the attached wired to the new switch, placed switch back into position, used nut driver to attach switch to the control unit. Rescrewed control unit in place with two screws. turned on circuit breaker and tested. All good. It is clear that this old Jenn Air range and be completely redone to good as new. All parts are available
We turned off the breaker and removed the screws holding the control panel in place. They are behind in the exhaust area.
The control unit was lifted up to reveal all of the wires and the switches. Using pliers I pulled off the connectors keeping up with which wire was from which connector. The switch then dropped out and the new one went in and wires were reconnected.
It was not difficult. Only challenges were that it was very dense and hard to get at the wires and you had to be careful to keep up with the wire locations.
Well worth the time...I can do something other than boil water on that burner!!
Seal was badly damaged on door of 24 year old range.
Removed two screws near the hinges and removed door and laid it on counter. As we removed screws from each part of the door, we stacked the parts in the order removed. Tossed screws into a shallow pan for safekeeping. Removed old seal and put new one in its place. Reassembled parts in reverse order as I cleaned each one. Put door back on the hinges and the job was done. Would have been a much quicker job, but door had 24 years of dribbles down in it, and needed a good cleaning.
We ordered a new element also, as the old one had blown up. Very gratifying to know there were still parts for my favorite old range.
I first bought an oven thermometer to check temperatures at different levels. Temperature was about 10 or more degree off. I next looked at the manual and found you can make an adjustment to the temperature knob. This didn't make a difference. Decided I would replace the bottom heating element. I ordered and got the element in a matter of days. The hardest part was loosening up the screws on the bracket for the old element. Thus the use of the vice grip came in handy. My oven is 20 years old!!! I'm sure I saved my husband a couple hundred bucks worth the repair guy.
My thanks to "Part Select" for making the process so easy to order and get a replacement. The repair guy finally called yesterday. Five days after I repaired the oven myself.
Burner on 'high' only, no other settings other than 'off'.
SHUT OFF BREAKER! Remove exhaust grill and switch knob. Remove cooktop switch panel by removing two screws and sliding panel toward exhaust grill. Remove switch retainer nut with deep socket. Transfer wires one by one to new switch. Install new switch tightening retainer nut. Reinstall switch panel with two screws, push knob onto shaft. Turn on breaker.
I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.
Pilot light would go out when oven was turned off but still allowed gas.
l removed the top section after the grates. Then l took the phillips screws out of the three brackets which hold the L brace which supports the controls,thermostat and the regulator. Only because l did not have a closed-end ratchet wrench for 1/4" and l could not locate my 1/4" socket for my small rachet. l disconnected all gas lines and the thermocouple, then l used the power screwdriver without the apex which makes it a great power 1/4" nutdriver and took out the two screws holding the thermostat. Then l just reversed all the steps installing the new thermostat and once l got the air out and gas was pure l lit the pilot lights and everything worked great. And l adjusted my top burner pilot lights a little higher to prevent them from gettig blown out so easy. Done deal.
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
5 of 11 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
blower motor
removed blower housing secured to floor with two screws then removed flexible vent pipe from blower housing then removed blower removed blower wheel and motor put new motor and wheel on put back on stove thats it..
Burners were not regulating and they were just going on high
I am not really handy. When the repair man came and gave me a price of $220 to repair two infinite switches, I looked up the cost of the switch and saw that it was easy to do...and it was! I saved $140 for doing it myself (no help from my husband).
First I turned off the power, unscrewed two screws and took the knob panel off. Wrote down the colored wires and then pulled them off the infinite switch (some needed pliers) and then i just put the wires back on the new switch...done...it works!