S105 - Instructions

The oven that was in out newly purchased house was a JennAir and over 20yrs old. Worked ok, but as with any heating element, the performance wanes over time. I decided to replace the baking and broiling element...and the oven door seal while I was at it. Everything went well, it was a simply remove/replace. Then I bumped the oven door where it was leaning up against the fridge waiting to be reinstalled. Down it fell on the tile floor. SMASH! Tempered glass EVERYWHERE. Got online with PartSelect and ordered a replacement (very reasonable price). It arrived in 2 days...just like the elements. Replacement was easy. Thanks to PartSelect for having the parts in stock and delivering them in record time!

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

slide stove out unplugged it took six screws out put new one in transfered wires pluged back in and it works thank you

I removed about 8 screws to disassemble the door to get the gasket in. This was an easy task. On the first use of the oven, it shattered one pane of the double glass door window. I think I installed it backwards since one pane is tempered glass, I believe. I installed the new window and am heating it up now - hope it doesn't break.

This wasn't a "repair", but I got an email asking for my story, so here it is. :-)

I followed the owner's manual instructions by pulling out the burner elements, lifting up the old drip bowls, setting in the new ones, replacing the elements.

First I removed a screw that held the element in place then disconnected the two wires . Then I just reattached the two wires put the screw back in place and was done in about 10 minutes. Fairly easy fix, I had this go out a few years ago and had a repairman fix it, and saw how easy it was, so this time I did it myself. Easy job!!

I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.

I first removed power from the stove at the breaker panel. Next, I used the assembly diagrams provided by the parts select website to determine how to open up the stove panel. I opened the oven door to access the four screws holding the front panel holding the knobs. I removed the screws and was able to tilt up the front panel to allow access to the four burner switches. It was easy to swap out the wires on the old defective switch to the new replacement switches. I replaced both defective switches in 15 minutes and tiled the front panel back down into its normal position and put the four screws back into the panel to secure it. Then I turned on the breaker and did a check to see that the parts I replaced were working properly. They were and the total repair time was around 30 minutes without rushing at all.

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

Took the (6) screws holding the top of the stove out, then removed the switch screws(2). Then lifted the top, so as I could reach and get at the switch. And then I repeated the above. It was alot easier the second time. Duh I erred the first time and replaced the wrong one and before I relized it, I opened the switch to check out. All in all. I still got satisfaction from doing it myself. Thanks Parts Select

- the fan/light switch was still functioning, but it fell into the cavity underneath, after years of use, heat and grease caused it to weaken.
- 4 wires came off the old switch, and went on the new one with ease.
- the only complication was in getting the clips off of the old ones, and getting the new clips onto the new one. otherwise, a piece of cake.

1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

Remove the screws from bottom of door to gain access to the hinge screws. Remove the bottom hinge screws and then open the door to gain access to the top hinge screws. CAUTION after removing the top screws close the door as far as possible while still griping the sides of the door. Pull up on the sides to remove the door from the stove. The springs are fully loaded if you have the door open all the way and try to lift up (like I did) the hinge will spring back and get your finger. Install the new hinge, put the door back into the oven, install all the screws and then remove the temporary rivet that comes installed in the new hinge.

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly.
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .