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Burner would not turn off
The burner light did not turn off, and the rear burner stayed hot. Unplugged unit and removed switch, which turned off the "burner lit" lamp. Thus I figured it was the switch that was causing the problem. Ordered the switch (I think around $18 and plugged it in. I think there were 4 screws to get the panel off, and then another 2 to get the switch off. When I plugged the unit back in (it had been unplugged while I waited for the part to ship) it beeped for a while. I had to turn the breaker on and off, and that solved the beeping problem.
had to pull range away from wall and unplug it so we could get behind to access the rear panel. we then removed old terminal block, by, removing screws from back panel, and one screw from under burner drip pan, inserted, new block, and reassembled. plugged it in to test and burner worked properly.
Turn off power at main electric panel/ move stove away from wall and unplug cord from outlet. Take knob off the front take two screws off the panel, take back panel off and remove the used switch and take and replace the wiring to the new one , one at a time wire for wire. Then put back tighter in reverse of the way you took it off. Plug in cord and move stove back to the wall. Easy
watched it on parts select this is a real fast and simple install took longer to pull the range out of its position well started by shuting off the power then double checked that the range was deenergized removed the knob then the 2 screws then on the rear of the range removed the back panel about 8 screws used a nut driver then removed the old switch removed each wire one by one and pluged each wire into the new switch just as they were on the old switch the new switch was exactly the same so every thing matched up perfect installed the screws to the front which hold the swich in place then the back cover turned on the power and tested the switch every thing working ok done shut off power slid range back into its place turned power back on everything still ok
I couldn't tell which one work best till I installed 2 units and I liked the other bracket for stability.The wired were too long and there is not a given way to strap them and keep them away from the heat source.
Removed the back top cover with 1/4" nutdriver. Removed the burner terminal block with 1/4" nutdriver. Within 15 minutes had the terminal block kit removed and installed and in service.
Corroded connectors and melted block on an electric stove.
The original GE blocks/wires were color coded to specific burners. The new ones are not color coded since they are sold individually and work with any burner, but they were identical to the originals in every other way. Just remove old blocks one at a time and connect the replacement so that the burner is connected to the proper control. Since the stove age was unknown, I replaced all four blocks to eliminate a repeat of the problem later. The screws holding the blocks and the wiring cover on the stove back require the same small socket wrench; not enough room in some places for an adjustable wrench. It took no more than 20 minutes to replace all four, test the burners, and close up the back wiring panel. The instructional video on the website eliminated my hesitation to tackle this repair. The parts arrived the next day, with no special shipping service requested. WOW. PartSelect will be the first place I go to find what I need for the next fix-it. I'm almost looking forward to something else breaking. LOL. Thanks, PS.
one leg of the terminal block was loose and overheated under load.the terminal block melted and could have caused a fire.
I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .
The terminal block for a front stove top burner failed
There was an excellent video demonstrating a very good method for replacing the terminal block at Parts Select.. I ran into a problem with the kit. The wires were too short. Instead of replacing the entire wire I needed to clip off part of the old wiring and solder the kit wires to them. I also needed to insulate the connections with electrical tape to prevent them from shorting out.
Found PartsSelect on the internet. Saw the video for replacing the Surface Burner Terminal Blocks with their kit. Turned a $400 oven replacement into a $25 quick repair, thanks to PartsSelect.
Bakelite block in the terminal block broke in two.
I can add nothing to the video you furnished on your website. I am generally all thumbs with home repairs - especially anything electrical - but, your video led me right through it. A good experience. We'll do business again.Thanks.
