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Drawers slides had broken causing pans to fall
It was very simple, took out the slide rails and took a screwdriver and assembled. My wife was very pleased to have these drawers in working order once again.
Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long
Fresh Food section door made a click noise on closing
Since the cam riser was obviously broken I obtained a replacement. It also broke. The door hinge cam needed to be replaced also. To repair Remove the hinge cover using a #2 phillips driver. Than remove the Hinge using an 8mm socket. Turn the door upside down and, using an 8mm socket remoge the cam riser and the door hinge cam. Replace in reverse order. Be sure to inspect all parts and order all required.
First I propped up the door. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the hinge on. AT this point you do need someone else because the door swings loose. I attached the new bracket and lowered the door. It went verey smooth. I ordered the new bracket after reading the installation stories from others who just repaced the plastic pieces. Its worth the extra money to just put on a new bracket
Fridge keeps cycling on and off and a clicking sound happens every time compressor cycles.
I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor. Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.
Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.
I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.
rerfrigator side not cooling After determinating that the defrost timer was running I turned it to defrost and watched tosee if frost started to melt. When it didn't I checked the heater with ohmeter, checked OK, so the only other component in the defrost system is the thermostat. Then just a matter of cutting and splicing wires and snapping the new thermost in place
After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.
The lights were on inside however the the water/ice dispenser did not work and the fridge and freezer side was not cooling
Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.
The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.
All the shelving rails had cracked, vegetable and meat storage bins dropped.
Removed the storage bins, unscrewed the old rails, screwed in the new rails and saved a Sears service call plus their mark up on the parts. Estimated savings was about $100.
I propped up the door with 2x4 and shims to be level with the freezer door. Then removed the 2 screws holding the hinge to the main unit. Then removed the 2 screws holding the cam washer to the door. Replacement was the reverse of disassembly. Be sure to tighten screws almost tight until both pieces are located correctly then fully tighten. Lift up refrigerator door slightly to remove shims and wood block. I did the replacement myself but was nervous that the door would fall off the block and shims. I recommend having another person hold the door closed during the process.
UNPLUGGED REFRIGERATOR.. removed top shelf in refrigerator..removed back plate covering controls..removed two screws holding control housing..removed two screws holding defrost timer..unplugged defrost timer and plugged new timer in..put all parts back in place with procedure reversed..
I emptied everything from door compartments.I removed the top cover of the door pivot with a phillips screwdriver. I removed the two screws that that hold the pivot bracket with a 8 mm socket. Lift the door off the bottom pivot bracket. Remove the old bottom pivot bracket with an 8mm socket and replace it with the new cam bushings.You must replace both bushings on the bottom of the door and on the bracket that mounts to the base of the body of the refrigerator. Reinstall the door and screws .The doors should be level with each other if they are installed properly.If not check the freezer door .The bushings may be worn on that door also.
