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leaking ice maker,big chunks ot ice were forming and had to remove them 2-3 times a day
removed old ice maker by taking out a couple of screws in the back of freezer,when new ice maker arrived i saw that it didn't have the same hose apparatus as old one so I easily took apart old one then took apart new one and switched them out-very-- easily done for a 61 yr old lady I might add-- also had to reinstall ice maker arm off old ice maker as new one does not come with one Then installed new ice maker in freezer I am very very pleased,sure saved a lot of money doing it my self
Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.
Trim was not staying place and the hinge cover was cracked
I went straight to PartsSelect on line and within minutes I found the appropriate brand of parts for my refrigerator. I simply removed the old trim shelf and snapped the replacements in place. I also inserted the glass shelf trim. No tools were required.
This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available. The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.
Water flow to ice maker quit & door switch wouldn't stop
Needed special "Torques" tool to remove front panel from refrigerator door not a problem, however, some folks may not have this type of tool. Replaced rubber actuator pad and DID NOT replace limit switch. Old pad was worn out & wouldn't reset. Replaced water outlet valve this fixed the water flow to the ice maker. Had to guess if this was the problem. I guessed right as the water flow to the door water point was working but the ice maker water flow was not. I also used a special tube cutter (I had one) to cut the water tubes to get a clean cut. Most of the time was spent on vacuuming the underside of the frig. Bottom line the ice maker works again!
I took off the backing off the back of the refrig. & the water valve with a nutdriver. Then unpluged two wire connectors & disconnect three water lines. Pulled out the old valve & hooked-up the new valve in reverse order. It don't get any easer than that. The dripping water dispencer was no more.
Replaced filter with by-pass plug. For some reason though, ice maker does no longer functions, although there is flow out of the cold water tap. Is the design of the bypass plug such that, when installed, it impedes flow to the ice-maker?
Refrig began to trip the GFI circuit in the garage. When plugged into a house interior circuit the lights and fan ran but no cooling in either the freezer or frig.
First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!
fountain (water & ice) switch sticks when actuated
1. Unplug refrigerator and remove fountain drip tray. 2. Remove the two #15 torx head screws that were covered by the drip tray. 3. Pull the bottom of the trim panel out and push up to remove panel and then unplug switch circuit board connector.. 4.Remove the three screws (same size as the other two) and then remove the switch, ice door, etc assembly and unplug the connector. 5. Aside. At this time I extended the water hose which has been short since new. Used a couple of inches of 1/4 inch plastic tube. Heated it with boiling water and slipped it over the existing tube to extend it about 1/2 inch. Now the water flows in a uniform predictable stream. 6.Remove the tiny phillips screw holding the switch in place. 7.Remove and replace the old switch and actuator pad and screw. Check operation of switch. I lubricated the surface between the switch actuator bar and the rubber with a little plastilube(white) grease. Probably highly optional. 8.Replace and replug the assembley. Tuck the actuator pad around the edges if needed. Remember to turn the screws CCW until they fall into the old threads and then tighten them until snug. 9.Plug in and mount trim and connect refrigerator.
