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Loud screeching noise when dryer running
First, removed the bottom cover below the dryer door. This is just held on with two clips that can be pushed in with a flat screw driver. Then remove the springs that go from the bottom of the dryer to the inside of the dryer door. We had to remove the entire front of the dryer, so the easiest way we found was to loosen the two screws on the bottom of the front panel, but not remove them. Then pop up the top of the dryer. To lift the top, first remove the two screws under the little door where the lint trap goes. The top is hinged in the back, and it snaps down onto two clips that can easily be popped up with a flat screw driver) With the top opened, there are two screws accessible. When the front of the dryer is removed, there will be nothing to support the drum, so what we found was that if you rotate the drum, you'll find a point where there's a hole in the top of the drum. If you take the springs that you removed from the bottom of the door you can hook them into this hole, and hook the other end into a hole in the back wall of the dryer just behind the drum. The springs are the perfect size for this, and it keeps the drum from falling when you remove the front panel. then just disconnect the three wires going to the switch inside the front panel, and remove the two screws from the top of the front panel. It should then lift right off. The bearing can just be pulled away and the new one installed. Put everything together again in reverse order.
My dryer conked. Would not turn on, but before that happened it was taking way too long to dry the clothes and the dryer would stop in the middle of a cycle.
Went on this website and found a story that was similar. I ordered the parts which arrived quickly and I replaced the Thermal Fuse and heating element and it was fixed! The whole repair cost me $24.88! Way cheaper than calling a repair man. Heater thing was part # 3387134 and the fuse was 3392519
Unplug Dryer. Disconnect dryer vent line from rear of machine. Removed 8 screws holding back cover on. Removed back cover. Disconnect 2 quick connect wires from dryer heating element tube on right side of the machine. Remove 2 screws holding element cover in place. Remove cover and element. Remove thermostat from unit and connect to new unit. Re install parts in reverse order of above.
Took off back panel. unscrew timer. unplug wire and replace new wires from new timer, one at a time to make sure plugged to right terminals. screw back on the new timer. replace back panel.
Repaired the 4 drum support rollers, 1 idler assembly, 9 tri rings, and 1 washer that came with the kit, however, the multi rib dryer belt that came with the kit did not fit my dryer. After several attempts to troubleshoot the problem, I realized that the belt was too small. I contacted PartSelect customer service and advised that the multi rib dryer belt that came with the kit was too small and I need to purchase a belt (P/N WP8547157) that fits my dryer. Adam was very courteous and helpful and very apologetic for the belt not being the right one. PartSelect refunded my purchase for the Parts Kit and I purchased the correct multi rib dryer belt. I received the new belt expeditiously and was able to finalize the repairs. Thank you PartSelect for your support and cooperation. Recommend: Advise customers that the belt in the kit may not fit the recommended dryer.
Dryer would stop after a very short time when cold, wouldn't keep running at all when hot
At first I was advised to replace the temperature overload sensors, which I did but didn't fix the problem. After adding the additional information that the dryer would run to full cycle as long as the Start switch was held in I was advised to replace the Start switch.
It wasn't obvious from the wiring diagram, but if you remove the Start switch and look at the side it shows it contains a solenoid holding circuit that keeps the switch in the "on" mode as long as there is a feedback signal from the temperature overload switches. So if the dryer will run to completion if the switch is held in, replace the Start switch. If it still stops mid-cycle, replace the temperature overload switches.
The replacement videos were spot on as far as clear and easy to follow instructions for the repair, and all ordered parts were delivered very quickly.
Purchased the dryer maintenqance repair kit. Very simple to do. Easy to follow instructions. Took less than an hour. Everything I needed was in th kit. Did not have to run to home depot for anything.
Super easy to repair...I had to idea how to get started; but after watching the video from your site it was a breeze. Thanks for having "how to repair" videos on your site.
Repair kit came in 2 days..fantastic..thank you so much....with new rollers, belt and tension roller she works like new
Start windings burnt out on original motor (dryer would not start)
The repair was fairly straight-forward. I removed the front of the dryer, lifted the top off, and then released the tension off the belt dy depressing the pulley arm. Once the belt was off, the drum came right out and then it was on to unhooking the wiring from the old motor. Very simple up till this point. The snag came when I went to unthread the impeller fan off of the old motor shaft. It was permanently sealed onto the shaft so I had to cut the old shaft into using a reciprocating saw was a metal-cutting blade. Once this was done the new motor installed easily exactly like the old one was mounted. I had to also purchase a new fan due to the fact that I was unable to remove the cut shaft from the old fan. All parts worked great and the dryer assembled back together easily. Works like a new dryer now.
We pulled the back off the dryer and we weren't sure where the problem was exactly. So we pulled off the heating element and the thermostat. The heating element seemed to be burnt out, so we ordered that and the thermostat. We got the parts very quickly, so we put them in and found that the dryer still didn't heat. There was another thermostat (trip thermostat) that we decided to order and try...bingo...that was it. Now it works like a charm.
PartSelect.com rocks! Watched the online videos and did what he did. Labeled wires so that I wouldn't switch them when re-connecting new parts. Although only the fuse may have been bad, I decided to replace the cycling thermostat as well, since others implied that they work in concert, and a defective thermostat could have triggered the fuse failure. Also, looked outside and saw that landscapers had recently piled mulch all the way up to dryer vent. (Could this have caused the parts to fail?) So for less than $45 (parts + standard shipping), the dryer works like new. Happy wife makes happy life.
Un plug or remove power before you start. First you would have to remove the rear panel of the dryer. All you need is a quarter inch nut driver. Then look at the bottom right side of the dryer. There you will see the heating duct. At the very bottom is where the element is. There are two screws on both sides( they will all be removed with a quarter inch nutdriver ). After you have removed the four screws holding the element on you will have to remove two wires from the elemet be sure that you mark them and dont mix them up. You will also have to remove the round temperature sensor because you will have to reinstall it on the new element. Then you get new element and reverse the order of my directions. Good luck and be safe ALL WAYS REMOVE POWER BEFORE WORKING ON ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES.
thought the heating element was bad, once inside the element looked good, tested continuity , tested good. further test revealed I only had 110 volts at the wall outlet,traced problem to fuse blown in disconnect box under the house. Did not need the heating element.luckily parts select is taking the new element back since I did not use it. Hope this review helps.
