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Squeaking noise while spinning
removed dryer door 4 screws removed front panel removed front tumbler bracket removed blower cover removed wires attached to heat and door sensors removed top removed drum and belt removed side panel removed clamp holding idler pulley replaced pulley and clamp reversed above steps
Using the pictoral parts diagrams on the PartSelect website, it was a logical process to disassemble the dryer to change the drum drive belt. This was a great opportunity to clean lint from the motor and air passages and inspect all components. Cleaned the belt track, the roller drum wheels and felt seals. Unit now runs like new. BTW - very fast shipping on the replacement belt and it was the right part the first time!
1 - unscrewed door 2 - made a mess because the directions did not work for my dryer 3 - figured it out = eventually 4 - popped loose the front panel 5 - unscrewed metal bars (that were holding the top down in the front) 6 - lift front like a hood on a car 7 - unscrew the rest of the front until the drum was loose and I could get to the felt strip 8 - glue new strip on where the old strip was = to the front and back plates that hold the drum 9 - put it back together :)
Dryer making grinding noise, and spotting clothes with black dust.
Followed your video; replaced felt seal on front of drum, (torn in two or three places), and replaced both front guide kits,which were ground to the metal, causing the black dust, ( metal shavings). Thanks for the help, Buck. The drum support rollers were OK.
Okay, first of all, just let me say, if I can do this, ANYONE can. I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. I watched online videos and they will walk you through everything. I am so pleased with the results. Quiet as can be now. Before, we would have to shut the door when it was on because the scretching was so loud! The parts on this site were far more affordable than at my local repair store and they all came right to my doorstep. Overall it took me about 45 minutes and three beers :) Good luck!
The repair was very simple.I removed the door and the front cover.Right in front of the blower housing sat the temperature control thermistor.All that was needed to do the swap was a nut driver.Everything I read said the high limit thermostat may of been bad but it was fine.Ordering the parts was easy and fast all I needed was the model number and all the charts and numbers were easy to find.Thank you Parts select..
Dryer was noisy and was taking a long time to dry clothes
The dryer disassembly was pretty straightforward. The drive belt slips over the drum and easily prys over the drive and idler pulleys. The drum seal is held in place with the existing metal tabs. The old drum glides had to be drilled out and the new ones pop rivited in easily. Overall a rather simple process and the dryer sounds and drys like new again for minimal expenditure and time. Probably would have cost $200+ had I had a service person do the work.
I removed the 2 screws that hold the door and removed the door. I then removed all the screws that hold the front panel and removed the front panel. Then I was able to lift (on hinges) the top panel. I then removed the screws that hold the front drum housing, then removed the drum and belt. At that point you have plenty of room to access the idler pulley. I removed the Idler pulley spring. Then I removed the the screw holding the Idler arm and shaft. Reinstalled in reverse order.
At first I thought I could just replace the pulley, but on closer inspection I found that the pulley had become seized on the shaft. I ended up removing the entire bracket (which I should have purchased also) and cutting the shaft off. I manufactured a new shaft from a bolt of the appropriate size and tack welded it to the bracket. It took a little more time than I anticipated. My advice to anyone doing this would be to spend a little extra money and buy the entire bracket and pulley. That would make this about a 15 minute job.
drum support roller had come apst from bearing and was making a squealing noise when dryer was running
first i removed the screws holding back cover. Then I remeved nut from tumbler roller shaft. Then I slid shaft from roller .I removed roller then replaced with new one. Installed new shaft then replaced back cover. recieved parts from parts direct very promptly & they were the right parts the first time thanks very much
Flame would go out during cycle and not fire back up
Removed front of dryer, removed 3 screws from bracket mounted on bottom holding gas valve assembly, removed nozzle from assembly. Removed 2 screws that held gas valve assembly to bracket. Replaced with new gas valve assembly and dryer works fine
TURN OFF THE GAS. Remove dryer door and the 2 screws holding the bumpers on the left side of the door opening, then pull the dryer front forward at the top. Unplug the 2 electrical coils. Unplug the igniter. Disconnect the gas connection union. Remove 2 hold down screws from the bottom. Pull the burner assembly out of the dryer (BE VERY CAREFUL OF THE IGNITER - DON"T TOUCH). Remove 2 small screws holding gas valve to burner.
On my maytag dryer I took the door off with two screws, took the front panel off with four srcews, lifted the top panel up a little bit and removed the belt from the "tub" and pulled the tub out. I could easily then access the idler arm and pulley wheel. Due to the age of the dryer, I also replaced the tub belt while it was apart. Reversed the process to put it back together, alot easier than I thought.
