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Switch did not turn off dryer when door opened
Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.
Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!
Remove front pannel remove wires to light and switch remove drum panel disconnect motor wiring unscrew motor mount replace idlerlever replace belt reassemble all parts
Gas Dryer would heat for one heating cycle but no gas afterward. Ignitor would glow.
Checked four thermocouples all showed continuity with my multimeter so they were all good. I'd read that the coils commonly went out and that these were the symptoms. Hey, it's very simple in there. Not much else could be wrong. I had a Maytag repairman come out. At first he said the problem was a blocked vent. I knew he was wrong. Then he said one of the thermocouples went out. It was $80 for him to come out. It turned out that his second diagnosis was wrong too. To repair the dryer by Maytag would have cost me $240. I gave him $80 and bought the coils for $37. They are EXTREMELY easy to replace: two screws held a bracket that held two coils. With the bracket off, I took off the old coils and slid on the new ones.
Close would not get dry. Dryer started normal. Timer would not time out.
Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.
The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.
I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).
I removed the screws that hold the element in place. I disconnected the wires. I took the new part, which was easy to identify and order, assembled per instructions, and attached it to the wires in the dryer, then screwed it in. I normally let my husband do these repairs, but he wasn't available. It was easy and the dryer works perfectly again!
High pitch rubbing noise from dryer when operating.
1. Disconnect power and hose. Use a putty knife to release top of dryer. Two restraints couple inches in from each side on front. Raise top and do not remove. Block it up in vertical so it doesn't fly down to back. 2. Disconnect five wires at front. Use magic marker to mark re-installation instructions on underside of top. 2. Remove metal screws (2) that hold front to frame. Remove front. 3. Pull dryer forward and put cardboard box, or some such thing under back to support when laying dryer down. 4. Remove frame (4 screws) that supports filter assy and front of drum. 5. Remove belt. Mark assy. sequence on underside of top. 6. Remove drum. 7. Stand dryer back to upright position. 8. Disconnect spring from idler lever. Drop light may help here. Note position of lever for re-install of new. 9. Unscrew bolt that holds idler lever. Nut is on back of bracket. Must re-install this way as bolt has pivot surface for lever on front side. 10. Install new lever and reconnect spring. 11. Lay dryer back on box. 12. Put drum back in place. Insure it seats well all around the felt gasket. Any misalignment here and it will not rotate smoothly. 13. Put belt around drum using small pieces of tape to hold it into position around drum, and them depress the idler lever and install belt around motor pulley. Rotate drum to insure it rotates smoothly. Remove tape. 14. Re-install filter bracket and insure drum seats nicely in felt gasket. Again, rotate to insure smooth operation. 15. Pull dryer back to standing position and reinstall the front, and re-connect the wires. 16. Lower top and push down to reconnect locking devices. 17. Plug in dryer and turn on to see if all is well. 18. Re-install hose and start drying all those clothes.
removed lower front panel, two screws on bottom edge. Limit thermostat located on lower portion of vertical panel at rear of dryer. I was able to detach the two wires and removed the two thermostate retention screws with a nut driver. Since I could only operate with one hand, I taped the new thermostat in place lining up the screw holes in order to replace the two hex screws. reattached the two wires and front panel.
Open bottom panel and observed back left drum roller wheel wobbling and obviously making the loud rumbling banging sound. Search goggle for Amana model part -- found partsellect.com, and read the list of other DIYs:
Take off the lower and upper front panels (two screws each);
Remove the front drum glide holder (four screws. Careful here because of the two wires to be removed for door open off switch;
Pulling drum forward only enough so the bad roller wheel would come off shaft after removing shaft snap ring keeper;
Grease new roller hole and old shaft then place the new wheel roller on shaft;
Replace all items back after cleaning lent off.
Note: Snap ring was a bit tricky (need snap ring pliers)--make sure it is clipped back all the way on the shaft after new wheel is installed. Also, I thought it was a good idea to put something underneath the dryer drum to support it while it was slightly pulled out -- a block of wood, etc. I found a spot remover plastic bottle that wedged up to support the dryer drum enough to take pressure off the belt during wheel replacement.
gas dryer would fire, but shut down before getting warm enough to dry clothes
Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. Then closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.
first i checked the power supply then i checked each of the switches and limit fuses for continuity. to do that i had to take the front of the drier off, four screws there. then i removed the bad limit switch 2 screws,the door switch was bad so i replaced it, no screws. since i had the front off the drier i removed the four screws that held the drum in place and replaced the belt. assembled the drier in reverse order when the parts came. 1/2hour total labor.