LAT8120AAL Maytag Washer - Instructions

The water valve on the cold side was making noise when cold water ran. I removed the screens but did not see a problem. I ordered a new valve and installed. The noise is gone and the water flow is back to normal.

At the time we did not realize the water flow had slowed.

All I had to do is tilt the machine to expose the bottom and replace the belts. It was fast, easy and the machine works fine now.

I was lucky to find a youtube video that showed every step. The hardest part was removing the front of the machine only because the screws were a little tough to access. Part replacement was quick and easy. It saved me approx $150.00

Easy video on Parts Select, then it still wouldn't work. The fuse behind the panel was blown, replaced that. And it was hero dad, I expect the bad water inlet valve blew the fuse.
Good Job, thanks for being there.

It should have been extremely easy, but it was a little difficult because my laundry room is very small and I had extremely limited space to work in and also had limited lighting. However, after taking many minutes to strategically plan how to maneuver in the tiny space, I was able to loosen the giant clamp on the hose inside the washer and attach the new hose! It worked like a charm! My 25 year old Maytag is working again! The part came in a bag certified as a genuine Whirlpool part and looked exactly like the old one! No complaints! The online installation videos are wonderful!

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

Remove frt cover to confirm leaks. Removed clamps and installed new hoses. Run washer to confirm repair. Washer is 58 years old and costs are less then 50.00 to fix every 4 years

This is for replacement of the complete injector hose kit, item number PS11738785. (1) Run spin cycle to drain any water from the tub. (2) Unplug machine and pull out from wall about 6". It is not necessary to disconnect supply or drain hoses from the wall. (3) Remove two screws at bottom of front panel, swing panel out until it comes loose at the top; set aside. (4)Disconnect the top end of the fabric softener tube from the filler port in the lid. If you let this drop, a small amount of water may drain out. (5) Remove two screws inside the top front corners holding the top to the sides. Raise the top panel on its rear hinges; it will lean back out of the way and remain attached. You can now see the s-shaped injector hose that connects the water valve to the top of the tub, with a small clear plastic box in the middle that contains the air gap tube. You may be able to replace just the small air gap tube inside that box, about 3" long, by disconnecting the front section of the hose from the plastic box - I've done that successfully several times before, but this time the upstream hose was eroded inside and still allowed leakage after replacing the air gap tube, so I ordered and replaced the whole injector hose kit. (7) Remove one screw attaching the plastic box to the side panel. (8) Disconnect the upstream end of the hose from the valve body. You may need to replace the hose clamp there, which doesn't come with the kit. (9) The downstream end of the hose is held in the top rim of the tub by a plastic end fitting; turn the entire hose assembly clockwise - toward your right - about 90 degrees, and lift it out of the hole, and discard. (10) Reverse that step with the new hose; push the fitting down into the hole [it only fits one way, like a car's radiator cap] and rotate the assembly counter-clockwise. (11) Clamp the upstream end of the hose to the valve body, do not over-tighten and cut the hose. (12) Fasten the plastic box to the top of the side panel with the screw from step 7. (13) Lower the top panel into place and reattach the fabric softener hose to the filler port. (14) Plug in and run a brief fill cycle to test for leaks. If OK, run spin cycle to dump water and reduce weight of machine. (15) Reattach top panel at top two corners. (16) Reinstall front panel; holding the bottom out at a 45 degree angle, slide the top brackets under the front edge of the top panel, swing down, reinstall two screws at the bottom corners.

I thought it was going to be next to impossible to find a replacement part for an older washer. So my first attempt was to try to epoxy the original part, but the epoxy didn't hold up to the stress. I began thinking about what I might need to make a replacement part which was possible but not very practical. Although I dreaded trying to find this part online, I was very surprised and elated to happen upon PartSelect! Oh, by the way, this washer belongs to my daughter and I nave tossed the paper I wrote the model number on, so the model number was entered as the part number, sorry. At any rate, the the part was reasonable priced, and shipping about standard, but I still saved a lot by doing it myself rather than having a repair person for something this simple. Partselect online lookup made it easy to find the model and drawings to help me find the correct part nomenclature. AND, the part was in stock! So I am pleased with how this venture worked out.

Good.

Removed washer tubs inner and outer nut (part # 10 ) on inner was hard to remove and is a reverse thread used hammer to loosen once off removed 1st tub - then removed set screw #17 and then unscrewed mounting s item #29 this again required some hammer tapping to loosen - once off used flat head screwdriver to pry & remove the rubber piece on bottom of outer or 2nd tub -but keep going as the leak will probably be from part #20 tub bearing ( this will save you the time to test and find out it still leaks and have to take apart again after only replacing #29 removed 3 bolts holding tub - disconnected hoses and removed 2nd tub - used rubber hammer to knock out and install #20 tub bearing - reasembled and wow no leaks to cost about $120 - time worked on 3 hrs - only because took apart 2 times - down time on washer 10 days as we didn't order all parts to start with no beer needed but did enjoy a nice red wine - good luck

unhooked power plug removed 2 top screws tilted topfront panel back removed cracked fuse holder replaced with new fuse holder put top cover back on installed 2 top screws plugged in power cord done!

Water Inlet Valve: Unplugged machine from the AC receptacle!! Disconnected inlet hoses from valve, removed 5/16" screws securing valve to machine rear cover, removed wires from valve, disconnected the fill hose at the valve being careful not to let it fall into the machine, attached the same hose to the new valve along with the wires being careful to make sure they were attached to the right connectors and attached securely, placed the valve into the place where the old one had been and secured it with the aforementioned 5/16" screws, Done!!
Hose: Removed front machine cover by removing two screws at the bottom of the machine, removed to clamps, pulled hose from connections, replaced hose with NEW clamps!! Done!

First I had to hold the balls into the little holes on the side of the lid - one at a time- and tap the plastic ball into the side with a small hammer. I did the same with the other side. Silde the lid to match the holes located on the washing machine - give a little push to make sure that the balls are in place. You have your lid fixed to your machine where you can lift the lid and it will stay up without falling.

Note: If the balls fall out - make sure to tap a little harder so that the balls stay in place.

First removed the two lower screws from the front panel. I then unscrewed two screws holding the top(lid) of washing machine. I then lifted the lid and let it rest on its rear hinges. The syphon is removed by unscrewing four screws from the rear of the washer. I then cut the original clamp holding the syphon to the hose. New syphon was installed. Enclosed hose clamp was used to tighten around hose. Syphon was then then screwed back to the rear wall of the machine. Easy fix. Water leak solved.