Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Small puddle of water on floor after water drains out.
I first removed the 2 screws at the bottom of the front panel. The front panel then pulls up and off. I then removed 2 hex head screws with a small socket, which kept the top attached to the two side panels. I then lifted the top and kept it propped up. I removed the internal drain hose from the siphon break on the inside of the back panel. I removed the 4 screws on the back panel that keeps the siphon break in place. I removed it and screwed in the new one. I re-attached the drain hose to the new part. I partially filled the tub and watched it drain with the lid still upright. No more leaks. The rubber seal in the siphon break had rotted.
Washing machine was leaking water from the bottom.
Hardest part was figuring out how to access the internals (not through the back or the top) It turns out there are two screws on the lower front of the machine, not easily found, which when removed allow the front panel of the machine to swing to front and out of the way allowing full access to the internals from the front. The water was comming from one of two water pump hoses. The hose was held in place with 1" hose clamps and was easily changed out.
washer was leaking when water level got about 4 inches in tub
It was fairly easy, start out by using a screwdriver and push down and out on the front cover and remove it. Take out the 2 small bolts that hold the top cover down to the sides and lift the top cover up and lean it back out of your way. On the bottom side of the agitator there is a small bolt that holds it down, loosen that bolt and pull the agitator out. The hardest part of the entire jod was to use a small chisel and hammer to take off the nut that holds the assembly down.Remember it has reverse threads,you have to use a chisel to back it off and use some WD40 to help remove the calsium build up that is around it. Once you get that large nut off, there is a set screw on the side of the assembly that you have to loosen up before you can take it off, it's a "star driver" head and not a allen wrench set screw.Just take your time and look at your new part and compare it with the old one and take your time and remember how you take the old part off,and you will not have any problem putting the new one on. This was the first time I ever worked on a washing machine, and by checking out the parts first and comparing everything,even someone that might not have much mechanical skills can change this out. My washer works fine and not a drop of water leaks anymore.One thing I did learn, if you change this part out and put it back together and try it out and it makes a funny sound and you smell something like its burning, you might did what I did. I thought I had it to tight, but I put the large nut on before I put the tub back on!!! The agitator was holding the tub down, but it could not spin in spin cycle.... Good luck with you repairs, you can do it.
Opened top - removed old switch assembly. Plugged in new switch and re-assembled. Had to reopen top when washer filled and did not start cycle. Switch assembly needed moved slightly in order to engage second switch.
After the washer machine reached the water level the washer would not begin its wash cycle.
I removed the old lid switch assembly from washer and one by one exchanged the wires to replace correctly on the new part. I placed the new lid switch assembly in the washer using the screw to tighten the part in place. I turned on the washer and after the water level stop the wash cycle began immediately. Friends were impressed I used your web site to determine the part selection by the previous reviews and that I replaced the part with ease. Thank you for an user friendly web site.
Remove front panel. Then remove top of washer, two bolts at front of top. Then remove two bolts that hold switch assembly to top on right side of top. Switch gets pried out. It just sits in with small pins holding it in place. Wire connectors hold very tight. Install is reverse.
-determined problem --verify that hose not clogged, screen filters clean then swapped cold w/ hot and verified that the problem was in the hot valve. -Moved washer to get access to hot/cold valves --opened access panel holding valve and swapped wires between hot/cold to verify that hot did not activate when it should --Used voltohmmeter to verify that hot water valve had open circuit. --Obtained replacement valve, installed, reconnected water lines and verified that hot and cold water worked.
First I took all the screws out of the side and back cabinet, then tried to pry off the top, after breaking a couple of clips, saw that the front came off with two screws at the bottom, then removed, then two hex head screws to hold on the top, then lift top and saw that the injector was clogged and leaking out the top. If I had read the repair section first, I could have saved alot of time by not removing all the side and back screws. This would be a simple 15 minute job, if you follow the repair guide. Just cut off the clamps, stick in the injector and holder , reclamp and reassemble the washer.
This happened once before and had I remembered how to get the front door off and lift the top it would have taken me less time. I actually spent more time assessing prior to ordering parts than in repairing once the parts came.
One odd thing - it only leaked when the hot water was entering (if the settings were on cold only no leak - no idea why that should be).
Anyway, this injector and the rubber housing it slides into get old and clogged or deteriorate. I ordered all the parts and replace them - but probably only needed to replace the plastic injector nozzel and the rubber sleeve it fits into.
All good now - no more leaks (until the next time!)
Once i figured out where it was leaking from(injector hose) it was extremely easy to fix. The best way was 2 screws on front bottom, remove the front panel. Then two bolts that held the top down, lift up and the injector hose assembly was to the left in the back. It took only about 5 min. to completely replace. An extremely easy proccess.
I initially could not figure out how to open the machine so I checked the internet for a repair manual. After getting it open I found the source of the problem. The siphon break was missing the diaphragm and was spitting water when the tub was draining. I did not know what a siphon break was or did. I am non mechanically inclined. So I sealed the top of the siphon break with a sandwich bag and a zip tie, put in a load and went to work. I now know what the siphon break does after it ran all day filling and draining for over 8 hrs. That is when I found this site, ordered the part and received it the next day as promised. It took about 10 minutes to put the part in and close the washer back up. It has been a week now and the garage is almost dry . HA , and my wife wanted a new washer ! This part and delivery was under $25. A new machine around $800 if I am lucky. The ability for me to be smug as long as she never finds out about the sandwich bag incident, PRICELESS !
took off front of washer , took off hose clamp removed old hose . replaced with new hose clamped back on put on front cover ran washer check for any leakes. done and done
Washer making high pitched squeal at stopping of spin cycles
My washer is apparently 37 years old. I bought it used in the 90’s and have had to do little or nothing to it repair wise. It started to make a loud squeal/squeak when the spin cycle stopped. I watched a couple videos showing the brake assembly, bearings and belt replacement and was able to find parts. However, one bearing appears to no longer be made (just repacked with heavy duty grease) and the special tool is nonexistent. I read others using a chain clamp vise to remove the brake assembly and bought a 20 inch chain clamp vise and a 3 set variety of vise grip pliers for about $20. They make an 18 inch chain vise but glad I got the 20 inch. I used two vise grip pliers to clamp chain around notch two notches that the specialty tool would normally grab. It was a cumbersome getting in there to whack the pliers with a small sledge hammer so I got a approx 18 inch 2x4 and cut a notch at the end to keep chain vise from digging into bottom of washer and whacked the end of the 2x4. Seemed to work ok and did the same to tighten back after replacing break assembly. Got it out back together and no more squeal.
The repair was very simple. 1. Shut off water and disconnected the water lines. 2. Removed screws holding water valve bracket to wash machine. 3. Disconnected electrical connections and water fill hose. Installation was reverse of removal. The directions said to use a small piece of rubber hose that was included in the package, but it was not necessary. Double check for water leaks before finishing installation.
