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ice maker quit making ice
removed the LED covers on both sides of the freezer, unplugged each circuit board, plugged in both circuits, replaced the LED covers, job complete, making ice
Easy repair, unplug the fridge and then remove the 3 screws on each side of the freezer holding the emitter and receiver. Swap the boards and re-install. Takes less than 10 minutes.
Replacement of parts was simple. But there are three main reasons that ice maker quits: door sensors stop working; ice maker, or it control system, stop working, or the coil controlling when water is released into the ice maker stops working. It was easy to replace the door senors; repairman replaced the ice maker and control board, which is located in one end of ice maker, but it ended up being the coil or simply a frozen water outlet into the ice maker that stopped the system from from working. The first thing you should do is to make sure that the water outlet into the icemaker is not frozen - use a hair dryer to melt frozen ice in the outlet - don't melt the plastic outlet with high heat. If the system still does not work go to this: look at red sensor on door to the the right. If it blinks twice in a couple of second with a time out and then repeats over and over, close the door on the receiving sensor on the left hand side of the casing and if the red light comes on steady then the sensor is working properly. So, now you have the coil that turns the water on and off or the water maker itself that can be bad. It will be one of these that are at fault, but not both. Call a repairman.
One front roller was flat on one side. Decided to replace all rollers at same time. Placed shims under unit and removed mounting screws for one front and one rear roller. With new rollers in place, I was able to level the refrigerator side to side, but unable to do so, front to back. Left the new front roller in place and reinstalled the old rear roller. Have decided to replace refrigeratorin the near future. This is one of my few repair failures!
The icemaker would not produce ice because the motor that pushed the cubes out had failed. The original icemaker failed in this way and we had the icemaker replaced by Sears Service for about $200. The second icemaker failed for the same reason after 18 months. I decided to do the repair myself t
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the On/Off button at the top to turn off internal power. Open the freezer door and move the icemaker switch on the right side freezer wall to "off".
To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.
The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet. Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.
Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.
The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.
Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.
Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.
Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.
The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.
Unpluged fridge, removed 3 screws from each control board (1 on left side and 1 on right side in freezer below ice maker compartment, unplugged and swopped out with new ones. Did one side then the other. Learned about the issue from other people on PartsSelect. Coulden't have been easier. Got parts in 2 days. Works like a charm now.
Originally I took the module off and found that a small plastic part had broken. Both pieces were still there, so I super glued them together and reassembled the unit. It worked great for a couple months. I realized it needed a more permanent fix, so I found the model # and looked up the part. That was very easy on your website. I ordered the part expecting it to take 4-7 days. It was at my house in two days! 15 minutes later I was makin' ice, and makin' my wife happy. Thank you for an all around great experience. I'll definitely buy from you again.
Removed the Wiring & Troubleshooting instructions from behind the front Grill and used to troubleshoot the KSCS25IN side by side refrigerator. I then removed the three screws from the Emitter assembly on the left side of the freezer. Then disconnected the four pin connector. Removed screw holding emitter PCB to housing and replaced with the new PCB and then re-installed. Similar steps for the Receiver assembly and PCB on the right side of the freezer. Unit started making ice after making some water level adjustments on the Timer assembly.
I did an internet search about the problem and found the information and experience that other people had. Ordered the part and that's it. One important thing to remember is to unplug the power supply of the appliance prior to making any repair. I short circuited the original board when I tried to plug it back in after cleaning the optics. (The board might have been bad before that.) The red light stop working but the frige is making ice non stop!!
I first had a technician come out to the house and he wanted to charge nearly $300 to replace the icemaker unit. I told him he was "high" and began doing my own research of the problem. That's when I found this website (thank God!) and read the notes from other customers. I figured out the secret location of the KitchenAid icemaker troubleshooting guide (why they hide this information I have no idea -- it's ridiculous), and performed the diagnostics to determine the exact problem. That is how I discovered that the emitter and receiver control boards were bad and not the icemaker motor module as the technician had tried to tell me. Good thing I didn't pay him, because my icemaker still wouldn't be working! The electronic control boards are a piece of cake to replace -- just 3 screws on each. Be careful with the electronical connectors since they snap in - don't pull on the wires, first unhook the snaps holding the wire connector to the board and then disconnet it. Once I replaced the boards I turned my refrigerator back on and immediately I heard the water running to fill up the icemaker and not much later I heard my first piece of ice hit the bucket. Woohooo!!!! It feels nice to fix a problem myself for a reasonable price. This site rules. I'll be coming here again in the future!!!
Called a repairman out. For $125 he told me what I already knew! The ice maker wasn't working. Said I needed new emitter boards and ice maker. Would go back to the shop and call me with an estimate. Estimated parts were $330 plus another service call to put them in. Went on line and found PartSelect. Emitter boards were $87+shipping. Ordered. Arrived in 3 days. 3 screws on each side. Unplugged old boards. Plugged in new. 15 minutes. Still did not work. Took out ice maker and examined. Gear that drives ice ejector fell off. End of shaft broken. Ordered new motor unit from PartSelect. $61+shipping. Arrived in 2 days. Loosened 1 nut screw. Slid ice maker out. Unplugged. Removed motor cover. 3 screws removed motor. Replaced with new motor and reassembled. 15-20 minutes max. 3 hours later had ice coming out for under $160. Wish I had known sooner. Thanks PartSelect.
The emitter code: Hold the flap that covers the receiver. (On the left) If the emitter does not stay red, the emitter and receiver are defected.
Replaced the emitter and receiver board
Unplug the refrigerator:
I first removed the ice-maker service door by removing the 2 screws at the top. Next, I removed the 3 screws on the lift side that housed the receiver. It is close, so remove the 1 gold screws on the receiver. This will allow you to separate the switch without any damage. Plug the new receiver in and reverse the process. Put the gold screw in to secure the board. Replace the 3 screws back into the receiver panel.
Remove the 3 screws on the right side. The emitter has 2 gold screws. Remove them so I could separate the switch. Plug the new switch in and replace the 2 gold screws. Place the 3 screws back into the right side panel.
This process took roughly 30 minutes. After assembly, the ice make was dropping ice in 30 minutes.
There are several large parts places in my area but I saved about $35 by ordering online. I place my order on Friday morning and the part was in my hands Saturday @ 6: 30 PM the next day.
Just as shown on your video.The refrigerator side was not sitting even, clunked and did not seal right. I decided to do.both sides, refrigerator and freezer while I was at it as our refrigerator is about 16 years old. Everything went in easily and saved us a lot of money. Very happy with the parts and repair video. Got the refrigerator nice and cleaned out while we were at it..Us and the refrigerator are breathing easier now..Yeepppeee....
