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Heat element needed replacing
Repair was really simple. Saw that the outer shielding on the existing heat element had degraded and ordered a new element. Part was shipped to my house in two days. Actually took me longer to get the oven door off than to replace the element because the left bracket on the door was slightly bent. Element came out after removing 4 screws and disconnecting 4 wire terminals. I was able to do the repair inside the oven and did not have to pull it away from the wall as the wires were long enough to pull through. I used some painter's tape to tape down the disconnected wires so they would not fall back behind the oven. Then I used a needle-nosed pliers to slightly crimp the wire terminal to the heat element and screwed in the four screws. That was it! Never did this type of repair before and it was really easy. Also estimate that for my 20-25 minutes of work I probably saved over $200 in parts and labor if I hired someone to do it.
I was stopped by the third screw on the roof of the oven, which was slightly rusted and would not budge in spite of using WD40! I had to enlist the aid of my son who arrived with better tools, including a SQUARE phillips head socket set. He also had to spend some time pinching and slightly reconfiguring one of the attachments in the back which did not slide together naturally. So, for an 82 year old retired housewife this was not as simple as it looked, but it was a piece of cake for guys like Erik with the know-how and the proper tools!
After using the self cleaning feature for the 10th or so time, the range locked up and nothing worked.
First we watched a YouTube on how to replace the thermostat. It was easy to turn off the circuit breaker. It was a little tricky to pull the range away from the wall and then we were able to unplug. Because our range is a dual fuel model, the back had a lot more screws to remove to get to the thermostat because there were covers over a lot of wires and the gas line I presume. However, we did get off the 12 or so screws with a regular screw driver. We easily located the thermostat and quickly realized that the two screws holding the thermostat in place were neither flat head nor phillips. We were able to remove one of them and merely twisted it sideways, installed the new thermostat with one screw and attached the wires. When we flipped the circuit breaker and plugged in the over, Voila, it worked. The hardest part was getting all the covers off the back. I hope it doesn't happen again because this was an expensive replacement part.
Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
Taking off the glass lense for the light bulb was harder than I thought. It unscrews counterclockwise, but it was very hard to get off. It would not turn. I ended up using connector pliers I use for work, that has rubber jaws. The lense unscrewed very easy with it. Light also unscrews out. PartSelect.com is the only way to go to buy parts for appliances. It is simple, even has the illustrated parts catalog. And it saves a lot of time and gas, driving around looking for the part!!. PartSelect came through again.
I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
Removed old fan by removing all screws except the back two lower screws - here I cut the flange on the old fan to remove. Drilled the back two bottom holes so as to fit over existing screws then replaced the top 3 and bottom 2 screws as well as power leads. Offset screwdriver is a must.
Installed a new thermostat and noticed the convection heating element wire had burned in two. Ordered new element and installed. Oven is currently working properly again.
Upper double oven would not heat following a power failure during the clean cycle
I turned off the power from the circuit breaker. I then removed the doors and the trim package from around the oven. I slid out the oven and had my husband help me lower it to the floor. I removed the back covering and then removed the wires connected to the old thermostat. I unscrewed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new thermostat. Did everything in reverse and it seems to be working very well. It took about 30 minutes total. Some sites suggested that a fuse needed to be adjusted/replaced. In this kitchen-aid double oven and I'm assuming whirlpools as well, the thermostat/fuse is one piece located on the back of the unit. It was very simple. The piece cost $47. Such a great investment of time and money. I had the piece in 2 days, without paying extra postage.
