First I looked at how I would get to the blower - this took 15 minutes. I removed the grills to access the burners. Then I removed the burners that took approx. 15 minutes. I then had to remove the knobs for the burners. Next I had to remove the front control panel which had 2 screws - (did not disconnect any wires but supported it). Next I had to remove the side trim. Next I removed 4-5 screws that secured the upper burner range top. Next I removed the side panels which has a braket on the lower forward side and 2 rear screws on each panel. Next I had to remove the aft backspash guard. At the back I had to remove a support braket that had several screws - then I had to remove the exhaust fan back panel guard. Next I had to remove approx. 7 screws on each side of the stove that supports the burner valves. Then I lifted the left side most closest to the blower. This gave me access just enough to remove the mounting screws (4) and to remove the 2 wires. There was some cushioning material which I found inadequate to prevent any vibration when the fan and the valve support top sits on the blower - so I doubled it. Then I reinstalled everything. This job took me 4 hours. I suggest calling a Kitchenaid repair technician and not doing this yourself. Unless you are a mechanically inclined and really like frustration.
Pulled out stove and removed side panel, then removed old fan unit. Installed new fan unit and replaced side of stove then slide back in place, stove runs even more quiet than when it was new. And obtaining the new part from Partselect was even easier than dealing with a part store where you stand at the counter. This service really has the part down pat for us layman repair people.
After turning of the breaker for the oven, I pulled out the oven, removed the back panel. The High-Temp thermal cutoff was attached to 2 wires, which I unplugged, and then removed the cutoff by removing two screws. I then replaced the part in reverse order, pushed the oven back into the cabinet, and turned the breaker back on.
Since there is multiple glass panels with several brackets, screws and insulation within the oven door I strongly suggest to take photos at each step using your smart phone. Do not attempt to remove all the components at once. Bracket positions, screw locations and glass orientation is necessary. This is the best advice I have to make this a quick and very easy job.
Using the video from PartSelect I followed the steps shown. Sliding the range out was difficult so I tilted it forward resting the frame on a 5 gallon plastic bucket. I did have to crimp on a new terminal. The repair was straightforward.
removed the top cap which held the control board - unplugged the old one & plugged in the new one - worked perfectly- had to be careful as the new one was plugged in & attached with 2 screws
The steel mounting screw tends to seize in the aluminum burner head. It is not easy to extract, or to drill out and rethread. My advice is to replace the burner head at the same time.
Turned off circuit breaker to oven Removed oven door Removed screws of reflector plate and top and back of oven Gently pulled element out and down slightly Removed slide crimps on wires Replaced reflector plate on new element Connected slide crimps on wires Screwed reflector plate with new element to top and back of oven Done. Total time 22 minutes Tested and it’s perfect!
Turned the breaker off to the stove. Removed 4 screws holding the element in place. Disconnected the electric connection from element. I had to replace the screws which were corroded. Connect the new element electric connection. Replace the 4 screws. Turn on the power. Turn on oven to burn off the smell of the new element. You are done.
