Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.
The microwave turntable rotates when the door is open.
This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open." With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open. Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower. There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon. Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin. Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF" Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one. Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug) Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON" Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward
I was receiving message that charcoal filter needed replacing
I finally found the two screws to remove the fan opening. Once I did that I did not locate an OLD charcoal filter!! I just deducted there was never one in there, based on where the instructions said it should be located. I placed the new filter and let it "rest on an angle" as per the instructions I read from the diagram, and from the other peoples description online. I put the breaker back on and all seems fine!
New unit, had to use inside vent, filter not included
I went to your site and looked up the schematic parts list and determined how to remove the grill and install the filter. I had the grill off and when the filter arrived I put it in, replaced grill and screws and then in about 20 min had the microwave installed on the wall and operating. By the way the part arrived about three days earlier than estimated. Thanks for your prompt response. You are on my favorites list for future appliance parts.
The turn table was making a terrible noise and wouldn't turn. I called a repair company and they told me it would be at least a hundred dollars to fix it.
I removed the screws that held the bottom in and then dropped it down to access the motor. I removed the 2 screws that held the motor in and unplugged it. I then plugged the new one in and reattached it with the 2 screws and put the bottom back on. It took me about 5 minutes to fix it for only $40.00.
I turned off the breaker/electric power to the microwave; opened the base of the microwave, detached the wire to the old drive motor, removed the screws holding the drive motor in place; removed the old drive motor and installed the new drive motor---beyond easy!!!
The microwave was making a lot of noise and the glass plate was turning very slowly.
I diagnosed the problem myself. I googled GE parts and was refered to you guys. I ordered the part and it took less than a 5 days to arrive. I used a phillips scewdrive to remove the cover of my microwave and removed the turning glass motor. This took less that 30min and cost less that $50.00. I figured that it would have cost me approx $125.00 to get a tech person to my home for this repair.
unscrewed the screw, pried up metal tabs that hold in light lens. took out broken pieces, slid in new light lens re-secured tabs with fingers, screwed in the screw again.
I took the part out of the box and handed it to my wife and said "here ya go hun, go put this under the glass turntable in the microwave. You'll know it's installed when you hear it click down" She yelled back, "easy as pie" - - - Humm.. I can't make a pie. Fortunately the old one was in one piece as the side just split so it slid off very easy. The new one just snapped in place.
I unscrewed two screws on top of the microwave, slid the part (which opens when the microwave is in use) to the left and put it aside. The old filter is then easily picked up and removed. I placed the new filter in the same spot. I repositioned the removed part in place, lining up the little tabs, slid it to the right, which automatically lined up for replacement of the screws. These directions were included with the new filter and it was very easy to follow. I can't believe anyone would pay someone else to do this simple task! I am a 67 year old female.
Noisy cooking tray motor with electrical smoke smell
Just removed the screws from botton of unit, unplugged and removed the burned up motor, reveresed the process to install new motor. Less than 10 minute job.