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Broiler Unit Failed
Used nut driver and removed the 4 nuts holding the broiler. Pulled electrical wires of old broiler Received new unit and it was just as easy to replace. Thank you for assistance.
Removed the hexagon screws. pulled the unit out and wiggled the tabs loose disconnecting them. Installed the new unit-attaching the tabs making sure they were tight. Put the new unit through the opening in the back of the oven and reattached the hexagon screws. Back in business in about 10 minutes.
Turn off the power at the breaker. Use hex head bit from 4 in one screwdriver or 1/4 inch nut driver. Heating element comes out, take off wire clamps and install new piece. Put screws back in, turn breaker on and that's it!
Old drip bowls were badly tarnished . . . shine could not be restored.
1) Make sure unit switches are turned off. 2) Lift Calrod unit up and pull it from electrical receptacle. 3) Withdraw Calrod unit from old bowl. 4) Insert Calrod unit through large hole in new bowl. 5) Push Calrod electrical connectors into receptacle under range top. 6) Seat Calrod unit on bowl rim and insert the assembled Calrod unit and bowl into the hole in the range top.
The lower,BAKE, element had burned in half almost causing a fire.
Slide the rang out to access the 240V plug & unplugging it. Removed the sheetmetal cover from the rear of the range to access the slip on wire plugs to prevent damaging the insulation. The insulation would be damaged if pulling them through the opening in the oven wall with the plugs attached to the element. Removed the racks from the oven. Unscrewed the retaining screws holding the element to the rear wall of the oven, lifted damaged element out and reversed the process for instillation. Perfect opportunity to clean underneath and behind the range.
I removed the rear lower cover. Disconnected the terminals from the heating element. Removed 2 screws from the heating element from inside the oven. Removed the heating element. Reinstalled everything in reverse order.
I used pliers to remove the hex bolts from the old burner element and pulled out the terminals by hand. I ordered my part and was slightly concerned because the part number was different (this due to my oven being so old I guess). After reading another repair story on this site, when I got my new part, I turned off the electricity to the range at the fuse box vs. unplugging the oven from the wall - because if I had pulled out the oven to access the plug, I would have had to re-caulk along the edges where it connects with my counter tops. I then slid the terminals into the female parts; this was a bit tricky because the female parts had receded behind the insulation in the hole in the back of the oven where they are located. I used small needle-nosed pliers to grab them and pull them forward enough to slide the new terminals in (by hand). I then put in the old hex bolts and used the pliers to tighten them. Flipped the fuse box switch and tried it out - worked great!
I turned off the circuit breaker and unplugged the stove. I removed the back panel and marked the location of the wires on the new oven clock control. I detached the wires and removed the old card. I installed the new one and reconnected the wires. I plugged the stove and turned on the circuit breaker. All the lights came on and the oven worked fine. I reinstalled the back panel and it took me less than thirty minutes to complete the job.
I knew I had a bad control board. Using the repair videos, replacing this part was very easy to do. While I was at it, I replaced my oven temperature sensor. as well, and even though it wasn't bad, I replaced my oven heating element so that I could get some more mileage out of my 14-year-old range. The issue: after completing my repair actions, my oven element still would not heat. I double-checked my connections and I discovered I hadn't ensured one of the wires on the control board was properly seated. This was one of the wires that go to the heating element. After ensuring proper connection, everything worked perfectly!
