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Element blew hole in self then no power to burner.
Replaced burned element, did not fix no power problem. Ordered receptor replacement, replaced it, took less than 10 mminutes, but still no power to burned. Then ordered replacement switch, replacement too less than 10 minutes again and burner works fine.
My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.
Remove drawer by pulling out and lifting up so drawer will slide out of range. Use 1/4 inch Nutdriver or socket - remove the screw that holds the drawer support to the body of the range. Remove support and install new one with screw Pay attention to the way the support fits. There are two holes one for the screw and the other for the plastic prong on the bottom of the support. The prong fits in the bottom hole and the screw in the above hole.
Oven no longer working after running the self clean option. Only Stove top burners worked
I began by turning off the breaker in the panel. Slide the oven out into the open area. Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel. Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8. Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB. Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.
When the burner was turned on it would be on high for any setting. In fact, the burner would be warm to touch even when the switch was in the off position.
I turned the power off at the circuit breaker, pulled the stove out from the wall, and removed the plug. I removed the top back panel, and took the burner switch out by unscrewing the 2 screws in the front of the panel. I used pliers to remove the wires one at a time from the bad switch and put them on the good switch. I replaced the new burner switch on the front panel and also, replaced the back panel. I put the plug back in the socket, pushed the stove against the wall, and turned the power on at the circuit breaker.
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
Surface burner stopped working & light indicator remained on
It took my son very little time to install control switch. Using a screw driver he removed the back panel directly behind burner units & replaced the control switch. Very easy.
1. Unplug the range power cord from the outlet. 2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop. 3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock. 4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel. 5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place. 6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded. 7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board. 8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. 9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board. 10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board. 11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board. 12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board. 13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range. 14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.
This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.
