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Part of a roller on the upper rack had broken
I removed screws holding the rollers to the side of the dishwasher. I pried the end caps from the slide. I removed the broken part from the upper rack. I then replaced the broken rack roller, inserted into the slide and screwed the rollers which hold the slide into the sides of the dishwasher.
My husband said it was easy. But the gasket didn't solve the problem. So we had to order another part. We had to order the little black stoppers that go in the hinge area. Still leaked so my husband took them back out and cleaned the area. Then put some kind of sealant in and replaced the black robber things. So far that worked.
Took out the old one and put in the new one! Note the delivery time was great! The part was ordered one day and delivered the next! Thank You Ed Andrews
Removing the slide end caps was a little tricky. Key was to tilt and twist the end cap and slide out. Putting them back in was equally as tricky, but reversing the process helped. Sliding the new track in place was simple. Total repair took about 6 or 7 minutes.. Part was ordered on a Monday morning and delivered the following day using standard shipping. Outstanding service.
Very simple. First recieved Top rack. used a flat head screw driver to remove cone/tower, put cone on new rack. put rack on grove slided in easily. Took old rack out.replaced with new easily
My GE dishwasher had a problem. The upper rack would fall into the lower rack when loaded breaking dishes! Turns out, the front rollers on the upper rack were broken so that the supports would just pull out. So, I found the parts on this website easily. I then took off the plastic plug on the support which is easy to do. There is a flange you bend towards the rear of the dishwasher to release the plug. Once released you have access to the rollers, which just snap off easily. The new ones snap on easily. Reverse the cap removal, and you are done!
The hardest part is removing the plastic stop on the end of the two slides that support the roller rack. My unit was very old and I was afraid the plastic was brittle. Fortunately, the plastic could still be bent without breaking. You need to physically bend the plastic stops to remove. They came out easily, but you do need to apply some force.
Replacing the rollers was simple. Replacing the stops was easy once you understand how to pry them out. I would recommend trying to remove the stops with your hand only at first. You are less likely to damage the plastic.
Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Leaking Solenoid valve
1.Shut off the electric! 2.Shut off the water Supply. 3.Removed the two lower front panels(Two bolts each) . 4.The Water supply Solenoid is located far left up front . 5. Unplug power connector clip to the solenoid. 6.remove the two mounting bolts . 7. Use pliers to compress the rubber hose clamp And slide down the hose . 8 some small amount of water maybe in the hose a pan maybe necessary under the solenoid. 9.Gently pull the rubber hose off the nozzle. Complete installation in reverse. May The Force Be With You!
The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.
When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.
I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.
Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.
My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.
TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.
