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Door Light switch cracked Mounting
I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.
Door would not close on its own. Stopped 1" short of closing unless pushed in all the way
This was easy. Removed the plastic cover at the top hinge. Removed the 3 screws at the top hinge. Lifted the door off of the bottom hinge and laid it on it's side. The part that was worn out is the "natural door closer". It looks like this part will need to be replaced every few years, it is made of plastic and was ground down to nubs. Remove the screws holding it down and replace it with the new one. Lubed it up with some WD40 to get rid of squeaks. I also replaced the lower hinge pin, but I don't think that was necessary.
Switch was not working after a repairman had fixed something else
Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.
At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.
First we ordered a new solenoid. . . The little piece that opens and closes whenever you push the button to dispense ice. That definitely needed to be replaced, and it was easy to do. However, that didn't fix the problem, so we looked and looked at the assembly and decided that a spring was missing. We ordered the spring, and when it arrived, we found that it matched exactly one that was already on the assembly. :-) Not the problem. Thirty minutes later we figured it out,. The diagrams at part select were not helpful with this. It was a matter of figuring out how the magnetic weight fit into the assembly. That's all it was! Now we have an extra spring for the future.
Used screw driver to pop out old switch. Used pliers to hold wire connection from fall back into slot on fridge. Inserted new swith into plug and pressed new switch back in place.
My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate (manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite works. Walla! It did. Thanks!
Ice maker auger wouldn't rotate, motor worked fine
To replace the broken drive coupling on the motor end of the auger requires sliding the ice bin out of the freezer section of the refrigerator. Remove the ice cubes and let it thaw out for a few minutes. Remove five screws holding the front face on the ice bin to remove the ice auger. slip the new drive coupling over the end of the auger. reassemble and replace the face plate with the five screws. Slide the ice bin back in the freezer. Less than fifteen minutes it was finished.
Ice Stripper was broke off, leaving the mounting tabs still inside their respected spaces in the ice-maker
Had to remove the ice-maker (also easier than trying to work inside the freezer letting all the cold air out). A few mounting screws and an electrical connection in the back. After it was out you will need to remove the cover (not the superficial cover that just pries off) where the gear is behind it, just far enough so you can get the mounting tabs on the ice-stripper in. In order to to move this cover out, after removing the screws (the obvious), you'll need needle nose pliers to ever so slightly squeeze the plastic clips together that hold the plastic movable bracket and the metal ice level arm/switch, so it will pop out. Once you have room to put the ice stripper in, it should just all snap back together, then proceed in reverse to put it all back together.
Called a serviceman. The Air return cover is NOT the cover we replaced. Ours is 3/4 of the way down on the freezer side of fridge. Put a thermometer inside, to monitor it.
Light Switch Was Faulty--Failed A Few Months After Purchase Of The Refrigerator
I had several times tried to get the old switch out but with no success. Ordered the "repair kit" and followed directions for removing old switch (there is a plastic spring clip on one side). Easy to unplug the old switch, plug the leads into the new one, snap the new one into place. Took about 5 minutes total--piece of cake. I wish I'd thought to try this years ago when the old switch began to fail.
