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Takes multiple cycles to dry clothes
I don't think it would take others as long as it took me. I had to take the drum out to get to the limiter. And my dryer is in a builtin housing with limited space in front of the dryer - so lots of manuevers to get access.
The limiter was very easy to find, thanks to diagrams on this site. The space between drum and limiter made it impossible to get to the limiter screws without removing drum. Found very helpful drum removal instructions on PartSelect here:
First thought the problem was with the spin cycle, however it soon became clear it was the pump that wasn't draining the water that kept the spin cycle from doing it's thing. After hand-wringing a large load and shopvacing out the remaining water, I ordered the new pump, got it in two days, and did a quick change out and it works perfectly. During the removal of the rubber boot that connects the tub to the pump, the one thing I did discover was a yucky buildup of years of fabric softener which I couldn't break my wife from using. But, after showing, and more importantly, letting her SMELL the fungus/mildew in the sludge, I've finally broken her of the habit! Best bang for the repair buck so far.
Unpluged the dryer, took out the light assembly, unpluged the wires to the unit, replaced the old unit with new unit from Partselect. Plugged dryer in, problem fixed. Taa Daa
first took off old pump off by removing 2 screws and removed 2drain hoses under front load washer with pair of pliers then put new pump on same as removal.
Took off front panel, removed drum and replaced parts listed. A bit tricky to keep small parts in place. However, masking tape helped. Best of all was the online diagram of how the parts were assembled. In addition, taking step by step phone pixs aided in replacing parts since there was some down time between diagnosis and installation.
disconnected electric and water supply. removed back cover from front loading washer. removed two screws from spring end plate on the top of the washer. replaced old spring with new spring/insulators by lifting the tub and hooking the new spring on. replaced the back cover and top spring cover plate. reconnected water supply and electric. machine is working like it did before the spring broke. very easy fix. the majority of the effort was moving the washer around to get easy access.
Dryer door would not close, part had broke and fallen in. Once part was received it took less than an minute to put the new one in and I was back in business.
thanks for making it easy to find the part needed. and the delivery was fast!
Paid $27 total for a shock kit to replace the 2 broken stock shocks. Replaced them. It turns out it was not the problem, but just a symptom of the spider bracket (mates inner SS drum to drive shaft) corroding and breaking causing the drum assembly to shake out of balance. Found out is a systematic problem with this model washer, and no matter what else you fix, this will break and kill it at some point. Piece of crap!
Had to replace one Spring on top of the tub and both shock absorbers. Anyone with even a limited amount of mechanical ability could handle this repair. Save yourself about $300 in repair cost and replace these items yourself. Spring and Shocks absorber kit cost less than $60 with shipping.
Just look at the diagram that comes with the parts, it's a piece of cake. The most difficult part is replacing the spring, she is stiff. You will need to take the top of the machine off, which is super easy, and remove the metal keeper on top of the frame rail. Get someone to help you as you will need to lift the tub and slip the spring over the frame rail.
The shocks are the easiest part of the repair, and should take less than five mins. to replace.
E47 error code means control board or door lock. From reading other stories, I decided to try the door lock first since it is much cheaper. Frigidaire tech support was no help at all.
First I removed the "wire" and spring that hold in the rubber seal at the door.
Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the door lock in place.
Removed the door lock, unplugged the 3 connections, plugged the connections into the new door lock, screwed it back in and replaced the rubber seal and wire that holds it in place.
Rear plastic drum support bearing got worn making the shaft come in contact with the metal bearing bracket. That contact created a groove overtime and eventually snapped the shaft tip off.
Cut power off. Remove all the screws from the front panel. (where the controls are) working from the bottom to the top. Insert putty knife between the dryer and the control panel and push down to release. Carefully disconnect the wire harness. You will find 2 screws at the bottom and 4 on top holding the dryer door. Remove and expose the drum. Remove the drive belt Remove the drum. You need a 5/16 nut drive to remove the bearing bracket and an extra set of hands to hold the support from the back. Re-install the parts. I used bearing grease to make it run smoother Attach the new shaft to the drum and reinstall the drum (its best done with help)
Re install everything back again. And you are done
I removed the front access panel above the washer and removed the top dryer front panel. Then pulled out the drum and noticed the drum support ball stud had broken off, rather than order a new one, I welded it back on with a mig welder. I then replaced the drum support bearing and reinstalled the drum. I then installed the new belt before placing the front top panel in place. I removed the small vented panel on the back side to access the belt tensioner and fit the belt around the pulley and motor shaft. The whole job took less than an hour.