Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Both springs and links on door broken.
Previous self-repair instructions provided on this site were very helpful. I started by removing items from under the sink and inspecting drainage and water hoses of the dishwasher to determine amount of "play" for sliding the washer out. Next, remove the two screws that secure the washer under the top of the counter. Then, remove the kickplate and barrier at the bottom. The washer then slid easily out far enough to explose the spring connector arms. I removed the old springs from the floor and the pieces of the old links (one link was ok, but I saved it for a spare). I installed the links and springs on both sides and connected to the first hole. By the way, the hole in the lower frame relatively close behind link is NOT the spring connection hole. There are a series of holes farther back. After testing the door and re-hooking the springs twice,I decided that the fourth hole gave the tension that I wanted. Now the door will come up about half way on its own, but will stay fully open when pulling out the empty bottom basket. Slide the washer back under the counter, being careful not to catch the insulation at the top and sides of the washer. Line up the top screw holes and install the screws. Install the barrier panel and kickplate at the bottom. I had to "fiddle" with the kick plate and barrier panel a little to get it right because I did not play close attention when removing them. I probably saved $100 by doing it myself. My wife said "It's just like new!"
Remove and replace the door gasket. Removed the 6 phillips head screws holding the top panel cover. This gives access to the latch assembly. Remove the two screw holding the latch in place. I removed the four wires one at a time with needle nose pliers and plugged them on the right spade of the new latch assembly. This assures getting them in the correct position. I then mounted the latch with the two screws and installed the cover with the 6 screws. Job done, piece of cake.
Unplugged the dishwasher and pulled it out. Tipped it down on its side. Removed the old and replaced the new. Re-installed and replugged it. Ran a test. Checked for leaks.
The nut was split down one side, so I first tried to sauder the nut back together. Saudering never goes well for me anyway, but I couldn't get a good enough seal around the nut to make it fit tightly. Then I had to cut off the clear plastic shield to get down in there, just before realizing you could just pull the white wire firmly and it would come loose from the nut. All I had to do then was unscrew the original nut, and screw on the new nut. Then, luckily I had mistakenly ordered an extra clear plastic shield and could replace the one I had previously cut. Dishwasher now runs like a charm!
This was too easy. I pulled out the bottom rack, spread apart the two clips which are at the bottom of the spray arm with my fingers and pulled out the old broken spray arm. The damage was visible. Then I took the new spray arm ( which looked different but still fit nicely) and gently pushed it into place. Done!
It is rather easy to repair. After you remove the screws that secure the top of the dishwasher to the countertop you can slide the disherwasher out far enough to gain access to the hose. The hose pulls off after you slide the spring clips down the hose far enough so they no longer grab. Then simply reverse the order and you're done. Less than 30 minutes and you should no longer have to hand wash your dishes!
replaced with new lower rack, out with the old, in with the new! Shipping was great new part arrived in 2 days! Great service, and will use again for all parts needed in the future, and will tell everyone about this site! Thanks a bunch!
slide out dishwasher. remove 2 screws holding motor/pump assembly in. slide out motor/pump bracket. disconnect electrical connection from motor. pull motor/pump assembly out. install new 'O' rings on new motor/pump assembly. (lube with liquid soap). install assembly. slide in motor clamp and install 2 screws. reinstall dishwasher. run test cycle. Fixed!!
The repair went very easy. Just opened the door , and pulled out the worn seal. Lined up the new seal and carefullly pushed new seal into place. Seal pushed in very smooth.
The latch was always hard to operate. My wife went to open the dishwasher door and the plastic handle broke off.
Delivery of this part was really fast. I ordered very early on a Thursday morning and the package was at my house Friday afternoon. This was a pretty simple repair. First you take the front panel off. There is an upper panel where the controls are and a lower finished apnel. Open the door, the screws are on the inside face of the door. Put a towel on the floor so the panel doesn't drop and scratch the floor or get damaged. Unscrew the panels so you can get to the door handle, it is held in with two torx screws (star shaped head). Take the handle off and remove the wires on the door switch. Installation is the reverse, mind that you install the wires on the right leads. The handle works better than the original ever did.
I turned the power off at the circuit breaker. I then took the access panel off the dishwasher at the bottom. I pulled the wire off the connector. I used a plied to remove the broken washer and replaced with new part. I put everything back in reverse order and ran the dishwasher. I than checked for leaks over two days while the machine was running and everything was fine. Thank you Parts Select for saving me $500!
The handle broke on the dishwasher and needed screwdriver to open the latch
I took out 6 screws, the face plate just hung down. Make sure the breaker is off. there were two screws that held the switch and handle in place took those two out. Disconnected the four wires on the microswitchs and placed them on the new handle. Put the diswasher back together. Turned breaker on and worked great. But it started to leak. This is why they give you the gasket. The new latch does not always match to the same seal o the gasket. Replaced the gasket took less them two min. Ran the dishwasher again no leaks and the handle you can use one finger to unlock.
#1 rule, make sure you valve off the water before removing any hoses. Remove wire trays inside dishwasher and then pull out dishwasher far enough to disconnect water line and power cord. Remove center piece and screen covering sump inside the dishwasher. Turn dishwasher on its side and remove hoses to sump and pump. Disconnect power to sump pump. Loosen retaining nuts that secure the sump and remove. Replace old gasket on sump with new. Turn dishwasher upright. Be careful with placement of new gasket when reinserting sump so that the gasket doesn't come out of position and the sump is centered properly. Secure with retaining nuts from bottom. Reconnect power connector and hoses to sump. Pour enough water into the dishwasher to verify gasket doesn't leak... look with flashlight under dishwasher for signs of water dripping from sump. Reinstall screen and centerpiece in sump inside the dishwasher. Reconnect water line and power cord. Run through wash cycle while monitoring for leaks under dishwasher. Reinstall wire trays.
Piece of cake as long as you get the gasket installed properly and the sump centered correctly... do not overtighten the retaining nuts or it may force the gasket out of position when the screen is secure with the center locking piece over the sump.
Took off front door panel with two screws. Found the part in the door. took it out and slide the new part in. My husband screwed the screws while I held the door in place. If I had known it was so easy to do I would have done it as soon as I got the part but I waited for my husbands help.