Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Drain pump needed replaced
The only directions that came with the new pump and filter, was how to replace the filter. I had to find a You Tube video to show me where the drain pump was located., and the way to get to it. I also had to figure out how the new pump was hooked up electrically, since the new pump did not work with the plug in on the machine.
Door gasket at bottom of door was falling apart and leaking
1. Shut off circuit breaker power 2. remove toekick 3 .disconnect door wire harness at bottom of main control board 4. release 2 wire ties securing harness to tub using long nose pliers 5. remove 2- 1/4 in. hex head screws from bottom of door 6. insert 5/32 in Allen wrench through existing holes in front leg and hinge arm when door is partially opened.(about 1/4 of the way) 7. repeat step 6 on both sides (this locks door partially open) 8. lift door up about 3 in. then tilt door in and remove door completely 9. slide old gasket out and replace with new gasket 9. reassemble door
No boost in water temperature; water temperature during wash cycle not hot enough; dishes not drying
Had to trouble shoot to isolated the true fault condition. Checked heating element was good Researched symptoms on YouTube Removed and inspected float switch part Ordered and replaced part.
First, drain as much water as possible using a shop vac or siphon. Unscrew two plastic lugs and food screen to release the metal *disk* found inside the dishwasher at the bottom. Then, remove the grey retainer ring found under the food screen. Using the nut driver, remove two screws from the white plastic retainer ring at bottom the flood switch. I used pliers to grip the ring to take it out. **Dry everything in the "well" where the flood switch sits.** Now, remove the bottom front cosmetic panel. This exposes the underside of the appliance. Locate the flood switch wire underneath and gently pull down the small black plastic tab which holds the wires in place. This allows more movement to make your job a little easier! Pull up on the flood switch and simply unplug it and swap in your new switch! Replace everything as you found it, don't over-tighten your screws, and make your kids load that sucker! Hope this helps, and have a beautiful day!
My heating coil was not working so naturally I thought I needed a new coil and ordered one accordingly. During the time it took to ship to me, I did more research and people suggested testing the coil with and ohmmeter for resistance as often times the coil is fine and it is the flood switch that is the problem. I got an ohmmeter and checked the old coil and it returned readings that were just fine (btw 15-30), so I returned the coil and ordered this flood switch.
Anyone reading this debating between buying the coil and switch can save themselves a lot of trouble/time/money by removing the coil and testing it first.
The installation of the flood switch is fairly simple. There's a great video on Youtube for it (titled "GE Dishwasher not Drying Dishes - How to Replace Bad Flood Switch:), so I won't walk through the step-by-step on it.
However, one word of advice is to be careful when installing so that you don't let the o-ring on the switch slide down the connector/wire once you connect them or you'll get a slow leak into the catch pan at the bottom.
Also, if this if your first repair on a GE Dishwasher then get to know the unit while you have it pulled out. It won't be your last repair based on my experience...
Dishwasher not operating. Would fill, not operate, then drain.
Performed all checks on youtube...water coming in, course and fine filter cleaned, drain pump working (heard it come on and no water present and cycle end). Swapped water inlet valve bc it was the cheapest poss fix $19. No luck. Ordered circulation pump and motherboard. Swapped pump, very easy with machine out and turned on its back. Temp reinstall and ops checked good. Contacted Partselect for return slip, emailed immediately and sent thru post office.
Followed troubleshooting procedure to determine that defective Flood Switch caused the problem and not the Heating Element. Replaced only the Flood Switch. I also replaced a deteriorated door gasket.
De-installed dishwasher from cabinet, removed door, and tipped unit over with back of tub resting on floor.
I followed the document referenced here for the troubleshooting and repair procedures: GE Appliances Technical Service Guide, 2012 GE Dishwasher, 31-9226.pdf available on web.
Part was incorrect Compare that to GE site saying number on both ports to different parts try to return was half the course of what I paid ridiculous So apparently I'm stuck with it Check GE site you'll see the port is different from what your sound but the numbers are exactly the same No clips to support the utensil tray
The blue colored silverware holders had broken pegs at the ends.
Removed the old assembly and put the new one in. Took about 15 seconds. Perfect replacement. This assembly is the complete basket. The color of the blue silverware holders changed to grey which is not an issue at all unless that was the reason you bought this dishwasher in the first place. ;-)
the part is OEM and fits like a glove. No worries. There is a minor variation in design and is not like for like design but fits exactly per specs and works. I have been looking for this part for years now. Thank you for PS for maintaining the inventory.
Front panel lights non-operational - no lights - no response
Disconnect power breaker. Remove the internal dishwasher plastic rack trays. Remove kick plate and kick plate insulation. Disconnected electrical connector plug from power board. Remove junction box cover and disconnected electrical wires (hardwired model - not typical electric plug model). Pull dishwasher out about 6"-8". Disconnect user interface cable from power board. Remove door. Follow electrical trouble shooting to determine that power board was getting power to the user interface board but lights still non-operational (including START button). Remove internal door panel to get to interface board and replace it with a new one. I decided to replace the power control board with a new one as well because I had ordered it prior to determining that it was the user interface board (module) that was bad. Reversed the installation, reconnected everything. Turned the power. Put the plastic trays back in. Tested the unit (empty and loaded) and, it worked.
