Wife said Dishes were not Drying and leaving Spots !
I tested Heating Element with Ohm Meter-Direct Short (if open it would have been bad and I would need to replace the element. Per the Website Troubleshooting for GE dishwasher, it said Heating Element (65%), Float Switch (32%), or Computer Board (only 3% Chance of it being board). So I ordered Float Switch. Later I noticed that the dishwasher would not change wash cycles from Heavy, Normal or Light. So I turned the Circuit Breaker on and off. This fixed the Wash Cycle. When the Float Switch Came in, I installed it in a few minutes watching the video on the GE Troubleshooting Page. Later when it was running I checked the operation and when I opened the door, the wife says seeing the steaming water, You fixed it, the Water is Hot now ! It was all about Hot Water, not the Heating Element at all ! And I think everything was fixed when I flipped the Circuit Breaker on and off and re-set the computer board. I think replacing the Float Switch was good maintenance, cause it was really dirty and needed to be replaced soon anyway. And it may have avoided my wife's next misdiagnosis with our dishwasher. This was 2 weeks ago, and all is well. Sincerely, Scott
Simple answer- do not try to do this. GE makes you replace the entire door to replace this $3 part or call them and pay $100s to fix it. We decided to replace the entire dishwasher after we went through disassembly (there are no instructions on this) only to find out we could not fix without a brand new door.
I was very confident that the problem with my GE Adora DDT595SSJ5SS was that it needed a new UI board. It had been beeping randomly for a couple of months, requiring a circuit breaker reset every so often, until finally it stopped working entirely. When I looked at the main board underneath, the LED was flashing too fast for me to count the blinks. These were the signature signs of the UI board going out -- and this did indeed turn out to be the problem. I've run the dishwasher several times since replacing the board, and there have been no issues.
The only real issue I had with the repair job was removing the dishwasher door. This was because the door of my model was held in place by a pair of tension cables (bottom left and bottom right of the unit), rather than hinges, and the cable method of attachment is less documented online. I had to get hold of a user manual for my unit to even discover this fact about it, since I had purchased my home with this dishwasher already present and did not see it being installed originally.
What I had to do was to pull the unit out about five inches, exposing the attachments for these cables (they are on the outside of the unit), so I could hook my heavy wire hook under them and detach them. If your dishwasher has these cables on the door, you really do need a hook tool of some sort to remove them. If you have strong wire, you can make one yourself as I did. Anyway, removing the cables allowed me to remove the door. After that it was straightforward to unscrew and unbolt the various panels, set the jumpers on the new UI board, and screw everything back together.
I should note that the cables were not tricky in any way, just that all of these Adora units seem to be a bit different and I happened to have one with a method of attaching the door that is not very well documented. I hope that this helps someone with this type of unit. If you see those videos online referring to detaching the door from hinges, and you can't find anything on yours that looks or feels like that, consider that you might have cables instead on the outside of the unit.
Unhook water line . Turn off power to dishwasher. Remove dishwasher from under counter. Lay it on its back. Loosen clamps on drain pump and remove pump. Install new drain pump and tighten clamps. Be sure to put hanger in the hole on the pump. Very easy job. Reinstall water line and put dishwasher back under counter. Turn on power to dishwasher. Go to go.
It wasnt exactly the right lower dish rack to hold silverware holder. Instead of the trouble of sending it back we will use it. Silverware holder takes up some of the space for other dishes.
Replaced gasket with a new one before further problems occurred. Got to get it in but it was relatively easy to place and snap in just make sure it fits on the right place where gasket inside meets ridges on door so it will be on properly for proper fit.
Since I have granite countertops, unscrewed 2 screws on each side of cabinet. Unscrewed the toe plate, unplugged the wire connector, and disconnected the cable from the door which was held by tie wraps. Pulled out dishwasher about a foot. Unhooked the spring cable to the door, lifted the door out and placed it on a spare table. With door face down on a towel, I unscrewed the screws at the bottom to release the latches, then unscrew the screws that hold the door locked in place. Turned the door on its back face up, wedged a flathead driver to release the settings display, from the body of the door. Separated the 2 panels replaced the foam rubber vent seal. Placed the face face down, reconnected both pieces of the door together pushing down. Rescrewed the bottom to lock the 2 pieces together reinsert the hinges, screwed them in with nutdriver1/4". Grabbed the old gasket, replaced it with new one, sliding it into the groove on the bottom inside of door. Reattached the door to the washer, rehooked the cables to the door, retired with zip ties the cable to the underside of door, reinstalled the wire connector, and re screwed the toe plate. Pushed the dishwasher, leveled, rescrewed into cabinet. Replaced the tub gasket.
-Disabled power. -1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate. -Unplug wires harness to door -Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches -uncouple spring pulley from door hinges. -Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove -Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door) -remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door. -Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal). -Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order. Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate. -Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.
I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.
I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills
The dishwasher was filling normally, but was not heating the wash water nor heating the dishes for the final dry. Dishes were not being properly cleaned and were not at all dry after the cycle.
I replaced the flood switch following instructions shown in readily available YouTube videos. In short, you remove the coarse and fine filters, then take out the bracket holding in the flood switch and finally the switch itself. After replacing the switch, the dishwasher works normally again.
The repair is easy for most if you have basic skills.
1. Cycle your unit to make sure all the water in the tub is emptied. (Start a cycle then cancel it which forces it to empty)
2. Turn off the power at the circuit/fuse panel & also turn off your water supply going to the unit which is usually under the sink with your sink plumbing.
3. Have a few old towels handy, there will be a little water but nothing that requires a wet shop vac, etc.
4. Remove the bottom kickplate (should be a screw on each side of the front of unit)
5. Disconnect the power supply wiring to make removal easier.
6. Disconnect the water supply line (have a towel handy there will be a little water in the supply line)
7. Unscrew the mounts either at the top and/or sides of the washer depending on the install method into your cabinetry.
8. Carefully slide out the unit.
9. Carefully turn the unit on its side or upside down depending on your preference to work on the underside where the pump is located. Again have a towel or two handy there will be some water that leaks out from the tub even after forcing an empty cycle.
10. The circulation pump is easy to remove. First plug the power line, there is a clip to disengage to separate the plug. A small flat screwdriver will help.
11. If this is a first time being replaced it will probably have crimp style hose clamps on the two lines coming off the pump. Again a small screwdriver will help pry it apart. Throw these away your pump kit will have new hose clamps for installation.
12. Once these clamps are removed you can slip the hoses off and the pump will be free to remove from the unit.
13. Installation is easy. Make sure the rubber hoses seal completely around the unit before clamping. Pay attention to make sure its sealed evenly, your unit will leak water otherwise once its functioning again.
14. My recommendation is to reassemble, slide the unit back into your cabinetry and hook your power and water supply up. Before you screw the unit back into place and close up the bottom panel, start a quick cycle. Within that first minute when the unit is filling and starting the circulation pump you can watch underneath and make sure your circulation pump lines are sealed and not leaking. Once satisfied, you can then stop the unit and finish securing the unit with mounting screws and closing up the bottom kickplate panel.
My granddaughter's fian'ce actially replaced the pump. He pulled the dishwasher out, tipped it over and quickly and easily replaced the pump. I had already snapped the converter on to the pump so it was ready to hook up. I had read previous messages that this part had a converter. After putting the washer back in place we set it on a light wash to test it. It went very well.
