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Dishwasher Not Draining
The pump went out after a few months of very loud noise during the drain cycle and then one day no drain or noise. A bit of research shows that this pump goes out frequently on this model so I ordered a new pump after inspecting the old pump for a clog or snag on the rotors.
The Install: After removing the dishwasher from it's installed location and turning it on it's side (unplug water and electric of course), I was able to remove the pump from the two lines that connected it to the dishwasher and the drain line. I also had to unplug the pump from an electric connection to the dishwasher. Swapping out the new pump was the same but in reverse. Not a hard install, only simple tools required.
One note, my electric connection to the dish washer was different on this model pump since they changed the original part but there is an adapter included with this part so make sure it is in the box and fits before beginning.
Dishwasher seemed dead even though it was getting power
I watched a YouTube video that showed how to to do this. The first trick is finding the right video. This one worked best for me / my model.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sesf0BS8fzM
The first few I watched were for models with the user display on the top of the door, and you have to open the dishwasher to see it. Mine shows the display on the outside. Look for the video that has a round plastic "vent" on the inside of the door. You will have to loosen it with some sort of tool in order to remove the display once you get the door taken apart. In the video, they used needle-nose pliers opened wide. My NN pliers don't open that wide, so I used two screw drivers. Pealing off the display is a bit challenging. I was afraid I was going to break the little plastic pins that hold it on. The rest is not too hard though, and it went back together quite easily, even though I did break a plastic piece that 0ne of the UI Control Board screws goes into. Oh well, now it has three screws holding it instead of four.
Downloaded the GE manual from the internet. Followed the GE repair manual trouble shooting guide. The manual contains all of the disassembly and reassembly instructions. Main board had a more than one volt higher than listed voltage output. Manual does not list an acceptable voltage range so I ordered a new main board. New board had the same output and did not fix the problem. I ordered a new UI board. The new board is a genuine GE "programable" replacement board that covers multiple models. I set the indicated jumper to the required position for my application and installed it. The problem was not corrected. I read that some people had problems with defective replacement boards so I contacted PartSelect to return the first two boards and reordered the UI board. I once again set the jumper and installed the UI board and it worked immediately. The whole repair was extremely easy. PartSelect is very good to work with. I had no problems with returns or refunds. I will definitely use them again if I have the need for any of their products. There were slightly cheaper suppliers, but PartSelect had the parts I needed in stock and they shipped my order lightning fast. They are more than worth the few extra pennies difference.
Simply removed old gasket by hand, lined up center of new gasket (white dot was printed on the center of new gasket) with the tub latch and pressed new gasket into place. We have used the dishwasher about a dozen times since and hasn't leaked a drop.
Board did not work. The socket for the jumper pins wasn’t installed on the board. Not sure if it was the correct unit. Decided to forget about doing a repair and just replaced the unit
-Disabled power. -1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate. -Unplug wires harness to door -Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches -uncouple spring pulley from door hinges. -Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove -Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door) -remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door. -Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal). -Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order. Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate. -Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.
I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.
I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills
I replaced the User Control and Display Board and it is working very well now. The important things that should be noted are to take off the door and to open the door cover by unscrewing it. Those screws are located at the bottom of the door and two are hided inside.
Unhook water line . Turn off power to dishwasher. Remove dishwasher from under counter. Lay it on its back. Loosen clamps on drain pump and remove pump. Install new drain pump and tighten clamps. Be sure to put hanger in the hole on the pump. Very easy job. Reinstall water line and put dishwasher back under counter. Turn on power to dishwasher. Go to go.
YouTube search indicated the common problem was the Dishwasher Electronic Control Board, part # WD21X10537. YouTube was wrong. $83.76 mistake. (not Parts Selects fault) I continued my search and stumbled on JustAnswers.com for $38.00. They diagnosed the issue by me describing the lights that were blinking and for how long, and quickly told me the door latch is not registering. However, said it is rarely the door latch, but rather the Electronic Control Board, part # PS12726419 for $105.90. What the heck, I'll bite. Bought both parts at Parts Select, quick shipping, solid packaging and good return policy (learned from previous experience). I did not return the 1st part, figured it probably wasn't long for this world anyway. Dishwasher is running fine again. The combination of JustAnswers.com and PartSelect.com is far better than an extended warranty. Extended warranties last 3 yrs in most cases and cost as much as I spent. Someone with smaller hands could have done both repairs much quicker.
