Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
broken light switch in the freezer
We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.
This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!
Clip on left hand side that holds Pantry cover broke.
1. Removed both crisper drawers. 2. Removed glass 3. Philips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws securing guide rail. 4. 1/4" nut driver to remove the 3 screws holding the End Cap than removed and replaced with new one. Done.
took out old lid, took out drawers above this drawer to make it easier to work on. installed new drawer simple by hand with no tools. put other drawers back. very simple no tools needed.
Broken hinge pin on the Chef's Pantry drawer cover
I removed the crisper drawers and glass shelf and set them aside. Used a nut driver (maybe 5/16") to unbolt the old endcap as well as the back piece which it was attached to. I had to study the damper system a bit so I could figure out how to put it back together, took some quick snaps with the digital camera to be sure I wouldn't flub it. I transferred all of the misc plastic bits which make up the damper system into the new endcap and bolted it back in.
Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.
bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!
We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing
First I found I had to remove both of the bottom crisper trays and the glass shelf over the broken bracket. Next I removed the bottom drawer slide held in with 2 Phillips head screws. Then I used a 1/4 inch nut driver on my hand held drill to remove the 3 1/4 screws holding the broken bracket. Then I had to figure out how to remove the air adjusting lever held in by clips and re-assemble it onto the replacement side bracket. Then I re-installed the new bracket and the drawer slide and re-installed the glass shelf and the crisper trays. Final step was to re-install the bottom tray and it's raising lid. Done!
Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.
Had to push the light switch to get lamp to light up. Removed power from refrig. and removed old light switch and replaced with the one I got from Partselect. Turned power back on and was done.
The little plastic nob that holds the drawer cover on cracked off. (terrible design and I am sure its a common problem.
I removed all of the drawers, and simply used the wrench set to loosen the three bolts holding the endcap and I used a screwdriver to loosen the plastic cover for the water hose. It took a minute or two to figure out how to unfasten the endcap from the other cover without snapping someother piece of plastic, but once I gently schimmied and squeezed the attached plastic the pieces came apart. Then it was just a matter of washing the refrig and replacing the parts. Snip/Snap.
Removed pantry drawer, crisper drawers and lower glass shelf beneath crisper drawers. Removed pantry drawer guide first with flathead screwdriver, and then end-cap with appropriate socket. Replaced with new end-cap and reversed the process. Replacement end-cap appeared to have been improved over original so problem is less likely to repeat itself. I really have been pleased with this feature of my KitchenAid refrigerator as it can hold a large party tray of snacks for entertaining
