Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.
Refer lights not working, there are two lights and neither worked. Decided the switch was the problem.
The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?
Part was pretty ubiquitous so plastic door pins part fits a lot of refrigs, no tools necessary, new part is flexible enough to bend slightly to fit over pins at side. Mine was a bottom freezer type.
Bottom drawer access door hinge pin broke of pantry end cap - right side. The pin(knob) is a molded part of the end cap.
Removed two 1/4" screws from the end cap with the nut driver and removed it. Transferred a few pieces from the old end cap to the new. Reinstalled the new end cap and presto, job complete.
broken hinge pin for deli drawer cover - replace end cap
First, turn off the refrigerator so the open door alarm doesn't drive you crazy while you are working with the refrigerator doors open! Then, remove both crisper drawers, remove deli drawer, remove deli cover from two pins (one was already broken), remove the bottom glass shelf and the plastic glass support. None of this requires any tools, all just slide or lift out. Then, using a nut driver remove the two screws holding the drawer slide from the pantry end cap. You access one of the screws from an opening while the slide is all the way in. This is where I needed needle nose pliers to remove the screw from the opening after it was unscrewed - if your nut driver is magnetic you won't need the pliers. To access the second screw, pull the slide all of the way out. Then you remove the broken end cap by unscrewing 3 screws with the nut driver. Once the screws are removed, you lift up on the front of the end cap to loosen it from a catch on the inside and then pull the end cap out. Install the new end cap by sliding the two tabs into the back of the refrigerator and then pushing down on the end cap to set it in the catch. Now replace the screws, re-attach the slide with the two screws, reinstall the glass and the drawers and then reinstall the drawer cover by slipping it into the pins on each side (be careful when depressing the pins, do it gently or they may break off). Turn the refrigerator back on. You are done These instructions make it sound much more difficult than it actually is, it takes as long to remove and replace the drawers and it does to do the actual installation of the end cap..
Dropped a jar onto the pantry and broke the plastic piece on end cap that moved the drawer lid.
Removed the lid and pantry drawer. Removed crisper drawer on right side and glass shelve. Removed 2 screws on glide. Removed 2 nuts with nut driver. Gently tugged on the pantry end cap and it released from the back wall. Had to rotate about 90 degrees to remove the extension off the back wall so I could remove the thermostat control arm from old piece and put it onto the new piece. Gently removed the thermostat control through a series of squeezing pieces and rotations. Do not force anything. Take your time as you are working with plastic that could break at any moment with force. Replace in reverse order.
One of the light bulbs went out on my Whirlpool refrigerator.
I changed the bulb but it still didn’t work. I ordered a bulb holder and replaced it and it works properly now. It was an easy repair, remove the bulb, gently pry the bulb holder out with a screwdriver and snap the new one in.
It was useful that under the description of the part in the catalog, it showed that this part was often used to repair this issue. The service was great and the delivery was fast.
