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Original glass broke due to uneven load and drum struck the glass
With breakdown maual, I diassembled the door and reinstalled the glass and rehung the door and closed it. Turned on the machine and the bottom of the glass does not meet the rubber seal on the washer opening.
First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cover and two srews as well.
Removed the 4 screws holding the top on. Pulled top forward to release front catches and stood top up out of way. Removed 2 screws holding door lock. Could not unplug wire plugs from door lock because wires too tight. Removed 2 screws holding lower front panel and removed panel. Pulled door lock down and unplugged old lock and plugged in new lock. It was easier to position door lock to reinstall screws by working from top, so top removal wasn't a total waste of time. Reinstalled front panel and top. Machine works.
While using washer a E9F code appeared and stopped working.contacted parts select trouble shooting site they told me what it was ordered the part they were right on!back washing again thanks so much for the help!
Did it with no problems at all just followed the video step by step worked great done in 1hour!
Took door lock switch out and fished out broken part. Reinstalled switch and installed new striker. Problem solved. Ordered extra striker just in case.
easy repair. I went to the back of the washer and removed the two(?) screws that held the top panel on. Then moved to the front of the washer and unscrewed the two screws in the door frame holding the lock assembly. Pulled it up and out from the top of the washer and disconnected the three wire connections. Then I just reversed the process with the new part. It all worked great. This website rocks... Phil Jax, FL
Tilted the washer back to take the 2 screws off the bottom to remove bottom plate. Took the 2 nut screws from the bottom of the face plate so that the front of the washer would pull slightly out from the bottom. Removed the 2 screws from the door stricker plate which allowed the door lock assembly to come out through the side of the washer. Unplugged 3 plugs, plugged the new switch in and slid it back into place, put the 2 screws back in to hold it. Reattached the front and the bottom plate. And bingo done. It worked and saved us about $245.00. Very happy!!!
machine would not go into final spin, clothes saturated
with the help of my nephew, we unstacked dryer after power sources were shutoff first. then simply removed the two screw attaching lid on washer. then removed two screws holding switch from front of machine. fished switch up to a visible area, exchanged bad for good. fed switch back to it's home,then reversed assembly procedures. these forums are great and have saved me money by enabling the repair both washer and dryer at a very reasonable cost without the need of a certified repair person.
Washer error code said control board($200.) but this web site said Door Lock and Switch assembly($80). Web site was correct, thankyou for saving me money and time for the real repair needed.
The door assembly did not fix the problem this time, it was the control panel that had to be replaced. I have replaced the door assembly in the past, and I am glad I have a spare on hand. They do go out over time from the pressure of large batches of clothes. I am "no repair man", but having someone come out to replace it for you is a $300.00 job, easily. Read the tech info for your error code and go from there.
