Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
replaced start button and start switch
disconnect power plug unscrew 3 screws in back. lean forward remove button disconnect 2 wires in back of switch. put switch connect 2 wires and button. connect 3 screws in the back. ready to start working
1st - removed the two screws inside the front door panel. They are somewhat hidden up underneath so you may have to look for them. 2nd - I removed the top of the dryer cabinet by lifting it out of the clips holding it in place. 3rd - removed the two screws (one on each side) in the o=uppper corner of where the side panels connect the front panel. These are about 3/4" phillips head screws. Then the front panel could be moved to one side of the dry. 4th - remove the drum by lifting it up and out the open top area. 5th - add the new belt to the dryer tub (rib side towards the drum) and replace dryer tub to its original position. 6th - reaching in underneath the tub you need to pull the ideler pulley toward the center of the cabinet while laying the belt on the "outer side" of the ideler pulley and at the same time fitting the belt over the small pulley located on the motor. Once that is done, you reassemble in reverse order and should be good to go.
The plastic door handle on the dryer broke and came off.
I received the replacement part I ordered from PartSelect.com within 3 days of placing the order. I opened the plastic bag it came in. I snapped the part into the holes left vacant by aforementioned abscence of broken part.
I wanted to fix the cheapest possible problem first which was the thermostat.
Got the dryer apart and it was the wrong thermostat for the dryer, which was good news! I looked in inside floor of the dryer cabinet and saw alot of tiny "springs". Couldn't figure how they got there.
Turned out they were coils from the heating element. Must have burnt out and fell free from the element. So I ordered that and replaced it.
I want to say that I'm in NJ and I ordered that thermostat and got it in ONE DAY! Thought that was too good to be true but when I ordered the heating element THAT CAME IN ONE DAY!
I don't know what kind of people work in the shipping department but they are awesome! You really made the difference on this job.
So did the info on your website. I've never even seen a dryer apart before. It was a piece of cake thanks to you guys. You just saved me about $500.
Used an allen wrench to remove the heat deflector and used allen wrench to replace it with the new one. HINT!! Do not lean on the inside of the dryer!!!!!!
I followed the instruction of the first posting for this category and it worked perfectly...thanks for the nice detail...
- Upon receipt from PartSelect, placed new slides in Drum Bearing (this does not come together or as a kit - must order 4 slides AND Bearing separately for this dryer model) - Loosened Top panel screws (2) from inside door area - Slid top of dryer off - PAY attention to HOW the top comes out (tabs at the back and slots on the sides) or replacing the top could prove frustrating) - Loosened Front panel screws (2) and GENTLY leaned the panel forward to access Drum Bearing - no need to REMOVE the front panel but be aware of the switch wires when leaning and the weight of the door if you did not remove that - Removed old Drum Bearing - Vacuumend interior of dryer cabinet (especially area leading down to vent) - Snapped new Drum Bearing into place - Re-secured Front panel paying attention to drum position to make sure everything still rotated properly and freely - Reset Top panel - align back tabs first, gently pull forward just a bit until Top slips down over side tabs, then slide back into place and re-secure
Unplugged dry cord . Removed top and front cover. Removed drum to replace rear Bearing. Reinstalled drum replaced front bearings and sleeve. Reinstalled both covers and plugged in.
took two screws off the front. They were behind the door. These screws held the top on. Lifted top off and took two screws from the frame holding the front door and panel on. Disconnected three wires and removed front panel. Laid dryer over on right side and removed four screws from bottom and back,two from control panel and removed left side.lifted drum out and removed belt. Removed nut cap and idler pulley wheel. Replaced same. removed three screws holding screen and rear drum bearing to drum. Replaced same. Removed electric heat coils from back and removed receiver for rear drum bearing. Replaced same. Put everything back in reverse order. Works better than new!!
I had to remove all screws from the back of the dryer, control panel, and one side. Pulled top off. Took out two screws that held front door panel on. Disconnected 3 wires into door and completely removed door panel. Disconneted pink wire from heating element then slide belt off drum as I removed the drum. Pulled off the old completly worn out drum bearing sleeve and replaced it. Replaced drum slides as some were worn through. Had a little trouble getting belt back on when I reconnected everything but for 50 dollars in parts and shipping I have working dryer, so I would say it was well worth the effort.
The repair, from the time that the bulb burned out until it was replaced took about six months. I could have shortened the time if I had ordered the bulb sooner. It was difficult because I had to listen to a fair amount of nagging, which, thankfully, has now ceased. I also had to actually go online and finI opened the dryer door, reached in with my right hand (which happened to be holding the new bulb) and screwed the new bulb in. Tip: Screw it in counter-clock wise. This was not mentioned in the instructions. Come to think of it, no instructions were provided. The company might wish to correct that oversight.