DDE8000MBL General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Opened door and found recessed screws that screw into the top of the dry and removed them and then the front removed very easy. Then took of the plate on the back of the dryer to get to the pulley that the drive belt was on and took the belt off the pulley. The dry drum then slid out very easy, there was 2 of use which helped with the ease of getting the drum out. We replace the bearing and the idler pulley wheel. Vaccummed the lent out and then put it back together. Now it is squeek free.

Watched a video online on how to replace the belt, it pretty much told me what to look for to get the drum out. Followed the instructions sent with the bearing kit and removed the old bearing assembly. Ran the screws supplied with the kit into the bearing assembly before I installed it. This was a tip I got off PartsSelect website. Running the screws in first is a must! Had my wife hold the assembly in place while I ran the screws in. That part of the job is the only time you need an extra set of hands. Put the dryer back together and it works like a quiet champ now.

Unplugged machine and turned off the gas. Removed top panel,4 screws along inside top edge of door opening. Used a wooden shim to pry the drum away from the surrounding "lip with felt padding. Slipped belt through.the trick is getting the belto around the entire drum. First I got it over the top of the drum, and fed it around the bottom by turning the drum and pushing the belt through the opening made by the shim between the bottom of drum and the lip with felt. It was kind of like feeding a bicycle chain onto a sprocket as you turn the wheel..
Removed back panel and vent hose, removed old belt laying on floor of machine, fed the belt onto the motor pulley and the tension pulley. Tension pulley presses on top side of belt. Belt should be in same position on drum as old belt, you can see a friction mark all around the drum from the old belt.
Replaced panels and vent hose. Put felt padding back into place wherever it slipped out. Very important because if you don't it scrapes the drum when turned on and makes a loud sound.
Dryer works perfectly again.

replaced rear drum bearing kit Still makes the same noise

Removed the top, front and lower rear section of the dryer. This being my first experience replacing a dryer belt I naturally missed the tensioner pulley first try, then installed the belt on the wrong side of the pulley and found I didn't have enough tension. After some thought and a long hard look I realized my mistake and the third time was the charm. Next time I need to replace a dryer belt it should be a snap and go a lot faster.

The part received had about 6" of the screen not bonded to the frame. I used clear epoxy and a 1/8" dia. dowel wrapped in saran wrap. after applying the epoxy to the screen/frame interface, the wrapped dowel was clamped to the frame. After the epoxy cured I removed the fixture and peeled off the saran wrap. The fix was a complete success and was undetectable. Your support rep. was excellent and I will use your company anytime that I need parts. Thank you. Dave Hathaway.

I love the Partsselect.com youtube videos. The man in those videos rocks!!! I did the repair of my rear drum bearing kit exactly as he showed me in his video and it was perfect. I have spread the word on facebook and around work about Partselect.com and friends and coworkers are already checking it out. Hey, everyone loves a good thing. I suggest that you do not be afraid, you CAN do it. Tear that baby apart and save yourself some money.

First of all, I am a women...I read where it was probably my rear bearings so I ordered the part, it came in just right, then I replaced it put it all back together, and with the computers help, got it going, belt back on and all and then turned it on and walah it still made a loud noise. Shucks, so I read more and it said it could be the front bearings which I should have tried first but didn't read it first. Ordered part and put it on and wallah, that wasn't it. The noise sounded like the paper in a bicycle spoke so I checked the fan. There was the problem. The fan had so much dryer lint behind it it was forcing it against the housing making a noise. Cleaned it removed all the new unnessary parts and re-boxed them and put it back together but just before I put it together the door fell and two wires came loose so I plugged them back in and put the wrong one in the wrong place cause when I plugged the dryer in sparks went everywhere!!!! I need a man now!!! Scared of electricity!! Sure wish I knew if the noise was fixed :).

open the front of the dryer, open the back access panel, remove the old belt fragment, pull front cover away from bushing surface at the front of drum, drape new belt around the face of drum, match location visible as the track of old belt, reroute belt at the motor and install tensioner in the proper way, reattach front cover, install back panel, done.

Actually, my boyfriend did the repair by taking off the top and back of the dryer to access the drum and belt he replaced the belt and put the dryer back together
We are greatful for your service and really happy we didn't have to drive all over to find the part.

Pulled the top of dryer off. Separated the door from the drum seal or gasket, slipped the belt through, put the drive belt on the motor and then put it all back together.

Started with removal of rear inspection plate on rear of drier,rotated drier drum by hand to look for any visible problems. Found that drive belt with age had lost sections of teeth and every time the bad sections would go past motor they would "thump".
1. Removed belt from tensioner. Done simply by moving tensioner to unload belt.
2. Slipped belt off motor drive and moved belt to front of drum.
3. Opened drier door and removed 4 screws from under the lid or top of drier ,raised lid for access to belt once belt had been slid to front of drum.
4. (steps 4 and 5 are the hardest parts)Worked drive belt between drum and felt insulators keep in mind there are many stamped steel pieces and sharp edges can be present.
5. Removed belt by feeding a small section past felt and drum and worked rest out from frt. top of drier.
6. Installed new belt in reverse order as removal.
This was done without aid of instruction manual and by someone having major back surgery 4 months earlier. No idea how much this saved me but the price of the belt and time and effort involved made it woth my while I'm sure.

There were no tools required. I simply pulled out the old filter, compared it to the new filter, for size and shape. Then simply placed the new lint filter in place of the old one.

First I removed the drum as described in many other comments. Took me about 10 minutes, pretty easy. Replaced the part which was easy and could be figured out just by seeing how you took the original part off. The hard part was aligning the drum, drum washer, and metal plate back into the drum bearing. I tried over 2 hours to do this and because it rotates and it's almost impossible to line up all the holes, I decided to do it another way.

I took apart the drum bearing from the back panel and then outside of the dryer walls I aligned the drum, washer, metal plate and drum bearing. I screwed them all in together and then, went into the frame and reconnected it at the back w/ the horseshoe looking washer. It worked perfectly and I was frustrated that it took me so long to figure out a different way to do it.

I have to say because of the installation it was a little tough than anticipated but was very happy with the end result (no squeaking) and money savings. Definitely worth giving it a try if you're patient.

Just put it in place. The hardest part was to choose the model number closest to the one I have (since it wasn't listed). PartSelect.com showed a list of similar models and I was able to choose from that. Luckily I got the right one (wrong color, but it fit!).