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shatered inside oven glass panel
I used the tutorial as a guide, and went ahead with the repair. Because of the older model I was working on there were many more screws to remove, not a problem the repair was simple.
Turn off power, remove heat coil assembly and drip pan. Unscrew the terminal assembly from the range top. Cut back 3 inches on each terminal wire and strip insulation 3/8 inch. Terminal assembly should be with the short side of the black block (from the side securement hubs) facing toward the coil stems. Slide the shrink wrap onto each wire and Twist each old with each new wire using the wire nuts and slide the shrink wrap Over each. Using a hair dryer, heat gun, or open flame carefully shrink the wrap. Secure the terminal back in place on the range.
Unplugged the range. Removed the top section of the back of the stove to expose switches. Removed the knob, (pulls off exposing the 2 switch screws), unscrew & pull out from the back. The new switch was slightly bigger but the same manufacture and post letters & numbers. Transfer wires one-at-a-time from the old to the new switch. Mount the new switch back in place, put the screws in and the knob on. I plugged in the stove for a quick test, HA....works perfectly. Unplugged again and put the back panel back on, plugged back in and pushed the stove back in it's hole. BEFORE; the old switch when turned down would come back on BUT stay on high, a lot of boil overs. FINALLY: when turned on, it would NOT turn off, a real fire hazard. Thank you for having an original replacement part.
Take handle off, then back cover. Of course unplug power. Switch wasn't built exactly like the original but all you have to do is connect each wire to the same letter, number code as on the old one . Works like brand new!
The burner on the top left (closest to front) would not turn off.
1 - Turn off the power from the panel. 2 - Unplugged the range from outlet. 3 - Unscrewed the black hex screws from the rear panel. 4 - Took a pic of the bad infinite burner switch to ensure the correct wires would connect to the new switch. 5 - Removed knob and unscrewed switch, then replaced with new switch. Matched all of the wires to like, L1, L2, P, H1 and H2. If any wires do not exist for your switch, it is ok because not all ranges use all wires.
8" burners were not responding correctly to the switches
Pull range away from the wall. Unplug range. Remove back plate covering the switches. Remove defective switch. Use bent paper clip to press center of terminal connectors and disconnect terminals. Reconnect each terminal of new switch as you go to avoid confusing terminals and connectors. Re-attach switch. Plug in range and test elements. Clean range area. Push range back into place, being sure to engage the anti-tip safety device.
It went easy, I ordered the part from another vendor, received it in 3 days and it only took about 20 minutes to install. I do not recommend ordering from PartSelect!
Electric element would intermitantly go on high, even on low settings.
Slid stove out, disconnect power plug, removed top control panel with 4 screws. Unplugged two electrical connectors. removed knob and nut removing switch. Re-assembled in reverse order and test all functions.
Burners constantly overheating, and inconsistent heating.
With the stove pulled out and unplugged, There are 4 square head screws to pull a metal plate off the back of the range. Once that is off, the infinite switches are in line and can be removed with a philips head screw driver/bit. I placed each wire onto the new switch as I removed them from the old, to avoid any confusion. The entire repair took less than 10 minutes. Incredibly easy.