Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Old part was replaced by mfg’r. Wiring different. No drawings or any info was included to show wiring.
I was forced to call in a pro repairman. Will cost me at least $150 for part and repairman. I could have done job if instructions on how to rewire had been included.
my burners would just heat up solid red even when i had controls turned down to 2 or 3. i would have to turn controls off and back on, then they still would just go back to glowing red
This was my first time ever working with electrical issues. My husband is not physically able to do repairs now. Very easy fix. Just viewed video repair instructions and it went exactly as instructed. Within 45 minutes, I had my stove repaired and cleaned and back in working order!! Great results. My range is working perfectly again and Mama is happy!!
The switch wasn't working on all the different settings.
first thing was to turn the breakers off. then pull the range away from the wall. used an 1/8 th inch socket to take off the back panel to get access to the switch.used a Phillips screwdriver to disconnect the switch under the knob in the front. took off the wire terminals one at a time and matched it to the numbers on the old switch.replaced the knob, screwed it on to the range. turned the breakers on and tested the switch.worked fine, replaced the back cover and pushed it back into place.
Oven wires arced and caused the terminal block to melt and become detached from the back of the range
Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely. Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.
I had to replace the switch on one of the large elements. It could and should have been a quicker repair if there would have been some installation/wiring instructions included with the part. Other than that the repair went well.
Your website is great...easy and it literally took me no mote than 5 minutes to find what I needed and order...and received it VERY quickly. Must say I was dreading going to some parts house that we have in our town in bad area, and searching on dusty shelves for what I needed...am so glad I found you!!
first I emptied the contents of the drawer,then pulled drawer open to it's fullest, then lifted drawer so as to tilt slightly, then removed drawer by continuing to pull straight out. then I removed the glide from its protective packaging and inserted it in the same spot as the broken glide was at one time
originaldrawer guide was cruched out of useable shape
first thing was to remove the crushed guide with pliers and a twist it was out. to install the new one islipped one side into the slot and took pliers and applied pressure on the lower glide into the slot; it was done presto. works like new. thanks, Fred . it was so reasonable i got a spare.
Unplugged the range. Removed the top section of the back of the stove to expose switches. Removed the knob, (pulls off exposing the 2 switch screws), unscrew & pull out from the back. The new switch was slightly bigger but the same manufacture and post letters & numbers. Transfer wires one-at-a-time from the old to the new switch. Mount the new switch back in place, put the screws in and the knob on. I plugged in the stove for a quick test, HA....works perfectly. Unplugged again and put the back panel back on, plugged back in and pushed the stove back in it's hole. BEFORE; the old switch when turned down would come back on BUT stay on high, a lot of boil overs. FINALLY: when turned on, it would NOT turn off, a real fire hazard. Thank you for having an original replacement part.
