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The orignal proberm was broken hinge on End Cap
There was little or almost nothing to change out the End Cap, two screws on the End Cap and two screws on slide. It took longer to removed and replace the two drawers and shelve than it did to replace the End Cap. The part I ordered was exactly what I needed.
Freezer would not defrost, refrigerator was warm, no airflow into fridge
Info on your site allowed me to determine the most likely cause of the problem, defrost thermostat, and that fixed it. Good installation instructions on the site too. Part was super easy to install. Hardest part was removing the snap-in/screwed-in plastic parts that held the sliding baskets and back panel in place. Didn't break any.....Thank You!
COILS WAS ICING ON REFRIGRATOR SOLID ICED FOUND ENTIRE COILS
CHECK DEFROST THERMOSTAT WITH VOLT OHM METER AND FOUND THERMOSTAT BAD ALSO OHMED OUT HEATER AND HEATER CHECKED OK INSTALLED HEAT SRINK CONNECTORS ON NEW DEFROST THERMOSTAT PUT SYSTEM BACK INTO O PRATION ALSO CHANGED WATER FILTER ON REFERGRATOR SYSTEM WORKING OK AND NO ICING OF COILS THANKS WADE BOYLES
Refrigerator would not cool, while the freezer kept food frozen and the ice maker worked fine. Also, noticed frost build up at the rear of the freezer compartment
First, turned off the circuit breaker. Then: 1. Removed all food, , wire sliding baskets, and the ice bin. 2. Removed ice maker by removing the electrical connector from the socket in the rear panel, removed the single bottom screw with a 1/4” nut driver, loosened the 2 top screws with a 1/4” nut driver, and lifting the unit up and off the 2 loosened screws. 3. Removed the freezer door by loosening the 4 screws( 2 on each side) with a 1/4” nut driver and then lifting the door face off the loosened screws. 4. The next task is to remove the panel at the rear of the freezer compartment: use a flat blade screw driver to compress the side clips that hold the ice maker electrical socket, pushing it into the space behind the rear panel, then removing the rear plastic cover in the center of the rear panel, and finally removing the thermistor cover on the right rear upper corner of the rear panel( separate the thermistor from this piece, threading it through the slot in the top of the plastic cover. Now, the rear panel can be removed by removing the 4 1/4”” hex head screws with the nut driver and gently easing the panel from its position. 5. Now comes the hard part: the defrost thermostat and most of the surrounding “plumbing” was encased in ice. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice, which created an overflow of water drawing into the collection pan; get ready to mop up this water. 6. With ALL the ice melted( this took over an hour), I simply cut the 2 wires, stripped the feed ends, removed the defective unit, clipped the new thermostat to the copper tube where the old unit was clipped, cut excess wire/stripped the new wires and used 2 orange wire nuts to connect each wire. Now all the parts and pieces can be reinstalled in the reverse order
The vents at the back of the freezer were constantly getting packed with ice. A repairman failed to spot the problem. I used Partselect's web site to do my own analysis and determined that it was the defrost thermostat. I followed the web site's instructions, which were exceptionally good. Behind the rear wall of the freezer was a lot of ice on the cooling fins and heavily encrusted over the old thermostat. (It was not really difficult, but I am in my 70s and no longer do things like this on my own.) After replacing the part, I checked the ohms of the old part and found it to be faulty. Since then, the refrigerator has been working great. I wish I had started here. The repairman I had hired replaced the "control board" at significant expense. I doubt very much that anything was wrong with the old control board. Many thanks to Partselect for an exceptionally helpful web site.
ice maker dripped water into ice bin, freeezing into large block of ice,
turn off water and unplug fridge. remove ice maker bottom mounting screw. just loosen the 2 top mounting screws. unplug wire harness from back of fridge. remove old icemaker from freezer compartment. once removed, salvage square endcover and reinstall on new maker. unfasten wire harness from old maker and reinsatll on new one. reinsert thermal wire in new ice maker holding bracket. remove second wiring bracket and reinstall on new maker to hold remaining wires (not mentioned on "how to-" video). remove old ice maker on/off bale and reinstall on new one. remount new maker to top mounting screws, reinsert harness plug into fridge. replace bottom screw,
remove front grill. with pry bar and wooden block, elevate side with broken wheel and insert wooden block behind assemble from the exterior bottom. With roller wheel assemble lose from the wooden block remove front elevator screw from the front frame. next remove cotter pin with the pliers and pull assemble pin. next elevate assemble out. drill out axle on the crimp side insert from the hardware store one 5/16 x 21/2 bolt with nut and new wheel. reinsert assemble in the reverse order. Remove wooden block and adjust height of wheel. replace grill. job complete. good job
Hollow ice cubes or no ice, and trickle into water glass
Followed instructions and installed dual water valve. Did Not Solve Problem! ... Then replaced Water Filter. This fixed "water flow problem" and "no, or hollow" ice cubes.
The plastic wheel broke in half at the right front of the refrigerator.
The good news is that the part (the wheel was available.) I bought two in the event that the other wheel may break in the future. The bad news is that the housing that holds the wheel was riveted together by the wheel axle. It would have been nice to know that before I bought the part and if the housing with the wheel installed was available. The refrigerator was at my summer house a hundred miles away. Anyway, we had to grind the end of the riveted axle to dislodge it from the wheel housing. With the axle dislodged from the housing we were able to install the wheel and then hammer the end of the axle flat to keep in place, like the original rivet installation. It is not perfect but it held and should be fine. I am glad I was able to get the part and will be back in the future, if in need of other parts.
The tab that is used to swing the cover on the lower tray broke off on one side.
First, I took out the glass tray along with the two slide out compartments that are part of that assembly. Then I used a small socket set to take out the three screws that hold the part in place and along with the part a plastic connector comes out with it that adjusts the temp of the bin area. Line up the holes on the slider and two screws come out that hold the slider to the part. Disconnet the plastic piece in the back that adjusts are flow (press down plastic holders) Reattach the slider, snap the plastic piece on the back and reassemble. Sounds complicated but once you are in there, its self explanatory.
Parts delivered quick. 15-20 minute repair time. Just needed to remove a few shelves, then screws to remove damaged parts and replace with new. Very easy repair.
Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced. reassembled the pieces.