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refrigerator door not working properly
Just as shown on your video.The refrigerator side was not sitting even, clunked and did not seal right. I decided to do.both sides, refrigerator and freezer while I was at it as our refrigerator is about 16 years old. Everything went in easily and saved us a lot of money. Very happy with the parts and repair video. Got the refrigerator nice and cleaned out while we were at it..Us and the refrigerator are breathing easier now..Yeepppeee....
One front roller was flat on one side. Decided to replace all rollers at same time. Placed shims under unit and removed mounting screws for one front and one rear roller. With new rollers in place, I was able to level the refrigerator side to side, but unable to do so, front to back. Left the new front roller in place and reinstalled the old rear roller. Have decided to replace refrigeratorin the near future. This is one of my few repair failures!
Purchased the closing cam (both pieces). Removed door (3 bolts under the dust shield on top of door) and replaced the plastic cam pieces. So easy a caveman could do it. I actually had my 13 year old son do it while I supervised!
Unit would freeze then defrost but not go back into freezing again untill I moved the thermostat
Turn off power .Remove the control knobs and pry off the front panel ,it just snaps on,Take out two screws holding the control panel Take out the two screws holding the control to the base of the panel to get at the two screws holding the control to the bracket. Ther are screws holding the covers over the thermostat tube. Then pull out the tubbe and remove the plastic cover on the old control and place it on the new control tube. Then route the new tube into the snaps be careful to not make ant sharp bends in tubing.When that is done fasten the control to the bracket and fasten the bracket to the panel.Replace covers over tube to hide it and keep from damaging it when putting things in fridge.. Mount the conrol bracket back to the fridge and replace snap on cover. Plug in electric.
Our refrigerator failed to cool in stages, finally quitting to cool or run.
First, after re-reading your descriptions here on your site ( it took clues from each of them) I unplugged the refrigerator and began on the only day my husband was out of town. The two selector knobs came off easily fingers only. The plate came off with only a slight prying with a screwdriver (it is intended to snap off this way). Loosening the screws and removing them in order to remember which order they returned proved to be a challenge. After disassembly, pulling the thermostat out of the tubing and replacing it with the new one without bending it was hard to do also. The refrigerator runs like new, and may run another eleven years! Thanks!
I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.
Replace two broken Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Caps
To get the broken end cap off of the retainer bar, hold the retainer bar still and pull the broken end cap straight off on a line that is parallel with the retainer bar, and with a little tugging. Might even have to tap the end cap lightly. Slide the new cap back on to the retainer bar and then put the end cap back into the door slot by putting the bottom of the end cap into the slot first by tilting the upper part back a little, then pushing down on the end cap to get it down into the slot far enough to let the upper part go in. Then adjust the end cap up slightly to cause it to snap into place.
Opening up the Evaporator Fan section was a quick and easy job. After opening, I checked and removed the fan and looked at the grommet. The grommet on the fan was tight and secure and I could no longer hear the noise. I closed the opening. Something I had done while checking the fan grommet must have solved the problem. I have not hear the noise again!
I spent several hours defrosting the unit. Making sure the vents were all defrosted and free of ice. The part replacement is fairly straight forward; remove the thermostat, cut two wires, reconnect the wires following color codes, attach to coil and restart. And, "Yippie!". Nothing. Zilch. Zero. Because I could not connect with the online repairman, I spent 40 bucks for nothing; problem was not resolved. Thanks for taking my money. I'm bummed and with just a little less money in my pocket. Never again will I ever purchase another Whirlpool product. Or buy from your outfit again (because of the over priced part). I replaced a 25 year old 'working' General Electric fridge for this junk that sat in the warehouse for four years before this was delivered to me in 2018 and sold to me as a "new" appliance. This was found out only when it crapped out and I needed to have it checked out for repair. Oh yea, I only had the comment section and the part recommendation to go by, and the latest comments are at least two years old. I'll be surprised if this even gets posted.
