Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
Door Seal on oven was old, hard and breaking apart.
It was very simple, pull off the old one, then I took some pliers and pulled out the fasteners. Took new gasket from bag and it just snapped into place.
First I unpuged the Range. Then I removed all racks and bottom tray of oven. The Ignitor is located at back of oven, paralelle to the gas bar. I removed the 2 screws holding the ignitor and unpluged the wires. Then I put on the new ignitor, perfect fit, replaced the 2 screws and pluged in the wires , then pluged in the range. I turned the oven on and it lit in about 10 seconds. Thank you PartSelect for having such a wide range of range & oven parts . no one should have to pay a service tech. to fix most problems, as long as we have a GREAT SITE LIKE THIS ONE. p.s. You guy also had one of the lowest prices , my part arrived ahead of schedule . THANKS A LOT !
CAUTION: DO NOT LIFT RANGE TOP AS IT WILL CRIMP YOUR GAS FEED TUBES!!!
Remove grates and drip covers. Twist each burner counter clockwise and lift off. Remove ground wire and ignitor wire from each burner. Remove screws that holds the Orifice/Tube assy to the range top (one where each burner was) You might have to remove the orange rubber flanges if they didn't stay on the burners to see the screws.
Now lift (or remove) your range top to get access to the tube assy. Take a wrench and remove each gas tube nut (2 for each assy) and remove the old assy.
Drop each new Tube assy in and reverse the procedure.
It was so easy, I pushed the panel towards the back and lifted the front up then lifted it right out. I am so glad that you had the part. I ordered it and when it got here, I just sliped it right in, perfect fit! Thank you so much! Cindy Brison
Removed oven door (easy it lifted right off) and remove oven bottom (also easy, no tools). removed two screws holding igniter and unplug old igniter from power. Re-attached new igniter and re-assembled oven.
Parts came very quickly from PartSelect. Good service.
Saw that the igniter came on, but no gas flow. Unpluge stove. Remover bottom of oven to have access to flow valve. Remored sheet metal cover. Removed burner. Unpluged flow valve and removed it.
Igniters were flaky on 2 burners and almost dead on 2
The part didn't come with installation instructions specific to any stove/oven so I went by a previous testimony on this website and pulled out the stove, and started to remove the side panel to get access. Well turns out I could have done the whole repair in place because on my Maytag the igniter source is accessible by removing the utility drawer and it's mounted on a small galvanized steel panel at the left side which hides the part directly. The existing spade connectors were the right size for me but I did have to crimp them tighter (which was perhaps part of the initial problem). After installation, the spark is much more powerful and all burners lit first couple "clicks".
Remove burnes and top oven glass, , identified cables for each burner. Unpluged cables, remove old ignition module, drill a hole to install new module. Place module in location. I had to figure out what cables were for the right burner as after placing in the same location as old ignition Module it turned out that they were not identical. I did have to cut old plugs to be able to install cables to new ignition module. If the new part came with and adapter to old cables, as old plugs have small connectors, the new one comes with larger plugs. That would have made it esier.
Freezer not getting cold enough to freeze ice cream
I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in. The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from a website even if it seems like a sure thing
Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long
Electronic spark ignition would not ignite intermittently.
The spark moule was accessed by removing the bottom storage draw and removing the 2 phillips screws that held the spark module bracket to the frame of the stove located on the rear right side of the draw opening. The new module did come with new spade connectors that reqires cutting the existing connectors off and splicing and crimping the new connectors to the wires for each of the four burners depending on the model stove. Also I had to use zip ties to secure the new module to the original mounting hardware since the replacement module is not a direct fit. Each of the four burners now instantaneoulsly ignite when turned on. I will buy from Partselect.com in the future. Thank you.
