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dryer wouldn't turn on
I removed the two screws on the top by the lint catcher. Then, per information from this website, I pried up the top. I reached down into the dryer and removed the two screws on the broken door switch and replaced it with the new part. I am a recently widowed, 55 year old and was thrilled to find good advice, information and instructions on your website!! Simple as could be!
I replaced the male end first hoping that a change in the female part would not be needed. Unfortunately no. I used needle nosed pliers to pry the male part out and pushed the new part in. The female part of the door catch was more difficult. I didn't do it in "textbook" form, but got the job done with pliers and a screwdriver. Worth every penny to fix correctly instead of rigging it. Do it!
cold water wasn't shutting off between fills on washer
Turn off water, unplug machine Disconnect water lines to the valve Unscrewed the clear plastic tabs on the top of the machine, then pryed the back away from the top white part. Two gold clips can be popped out with a long flat head screw driver. Pulled the back away from the machine enough to disconnect the wires from the valve. Unscrew the screw(s) from the valves. Old valves out, new valves in. Plug in the wires, screw in the screws. Then, to get the gold tabs back in place.....i called NASA. just kidding. They're tough! I slipped one into the back and held it in place with my thumb. Then I lined the piece up with the slot inside the machine. Then, i pryed the top white part away as I pushed them together. Stuck a long handle screwdriver down in and pushed REALLY hard on the gold tab to get it to snap into place. Everything is really tight, so you might have to try it a few times.....i left some blood behind. repeat for the other side, snap in the clear tabs, hook up the water lines, plugged it in...... Then I sat back and listened to my wife praise me for fixing her machine!
The only thing I had to do was hammer the catch inside the square fitting and presto it was done. It took me less than 3 mins. I thought I might of needed instructions, but it was really simple. Even a guy can do it. (smile)
The valve was easy to change, but we as homeowners should change the hot and cold hoses just like they say you should every 5 years. The hoses grew to the water valve and it was almost a disaster. After cutting the end with a dremmel and clamping visegrips on it I finally got it loose. After that it went smooth. Thanks for getting me the part so fast.
Water would not stop coming in when ran all the time
unscrewed the back removd thr two screws for the element unhooked the hose to machiine unpluged the electric to element and than replaced new element and plugged electric to element and hooked back the hose and replaced screws too the back and replaced back an screws titled wash machine up hooked hoses for the water and plugged electric and put drain hose back to drain done
This should have been done under 30 minutes but when you don't have a repair manual, you have to do some guessing. I have to remove the back panel. On only thing that was hard was unspringing the two flat springs. After I got the panel off, the rest was easy and the dripping stopped. Oh, there is a screen where the hose connects to the inlet valve. If you can clean the screen often, you can continue to get a good water flow.
I just followed the instructions found on this website. It covered everything you need to know. I have just one thing to add though. Look over everything first and formulate a game plan. Keep all screws etc. and put them in a plastic bag so you don't lose them. You might try using a heavy hammer to force the clips holding the back panel to the top of the machine back in place. One more thing; use a piece of wood to set the back panel on while you replace the intake valve.
Simple repair. Unplugged power cord, turned off water spigots. Removed the two screws under the control panel and rotated it up and back out of the way. Popped the two retaining clips (that's much easier now that I know to simply stick a large screwdriver straight down vertically into the front portion of the clip and lean the screwdriver back, rather than try to pry the clip out by levering under it against the washer top) holding the main body panel to the front of the washer and tilted it forward but not all the way off.
That allowed plenty of room to get at the back panel where the valve assembly is. There is some sort of plastic tray over the top of the valves that's kinda in the way so I popped it out by squeezing its plastic retaining barb with needle nose pliers and forcing it back thru the metal panel. Two screws hold the valve assembly on, and of course the water supply hoses are on one side and the fill hoses on the other. Removed and placed them on the new valve in order
The replacement part comes with a mounting plate and is not an exact duplicate. I screwed the assembly to the plate, but the holes in the plate don't line up perfectly enough to allow a second screw to be used. I could have drilled in a new one if I was willing to move the washer even farther out but a single screw holds it plenty well enough for me. Be sure to attach the correct electrical connectors and water lines to the new valves.
Reassemble in reverse order BUT TAKE CARE NOT TO PINCH THE CLEAR PLASTIC TUBE that runs from the water level switch down behind the control panel when you rotate the control panel back into position. I watched my washer fill almost to overflowing before realizing something was wrong. After 2-3 unsuccessful examinations I finally realized the tube was caught between two panels of metal and the controls were not recieving the "I'm full" signal from the wash tub. That would have been a mess if I hadn't watched a wash cycle to double-check my work.
My washer sounds brand new and fills faster. $30 shipped and an hour of work.
Removed two clips on back panel holding control panel.Removed end plates on control panel. removed two front screws holding control panel. removed wiring harnesses noting location. Set control panel aside. Removed two large clips holding rear panel to washer cabinet. Pulled washer cabinet from the front away from the rear panel and tube. Removed two screws holding water inlet valve. Removed water inlet hose from inlet valve using channel lock pliers. Installed new water inlet valve using supplied mounting bracket. Reassembled washer in reverse order.
