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Error codes SUD and Fo2
Remove three screws on bottom panel lift up and remove panel.The water pump in right in front. One screw holds it in place and the input and output hoses are on the back side.The hose clamps are a little hard to take off I found that before taking the one screw off the pump remove these two lines.Putting the pump back in secure the pump with the one screw. The output line is easy the intake line can be a bit of a more work to get it on because the rubber is so thin.Getting this hose and clamp was tough. Most of all use a wet vac to remove water in washer and vac out the line to drain doing this will be water free during replacing water pump.Run a cycle to make sure the lins do not leak. The other is the people that has posted this replacement are very good
Removed the outer spring with pliers. Pushed the bellow into the drum. Loosened the clamp on the bellow with a stub nose screwdriver. Removed the bellow. lined bellow up with soap fiting. Reversed procedure to reinstall.
One of my baffles just came off during a wash, one of the plastic clps that hold it in place dry rottedafter 10 years
Real easy , the baffle goes in only one way , use the others as guide as too which side the taller end goes. With one hand pushing in the center of the back of the basket , pushing back , simply place and slide baffle towards you with other hand , there will be a crisp snap as it slide in to place.
Replacing the heat sensor following an F-24 Error Notice.
I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!
water was back filling into the tub when not in use
Unplugged power cord, turned off both water valves on the wall, Disconnected the water hoses o the back where they are attached to the water inlet valve. Note: there will likely be some water left in the hoses. Then removed top lid of washer (this is a front load washer) by removing the 3 nut screws on the back of the lid and sliding it to the back and lifting off.. Disconnected the small hose that is attached to the water inlet valve by squeezing the hose clamp and sliding the hose off. Removed the 4 wires connected to the water inlet valve (marked each one with a number in order) then removed the Phillips head screw on the back of the machine holding the water inlet valve, sliding the valve to the right, . Removed valve, and replaced with new one, and re-installed by reversing order of removal.
First I removed the retainer ring that holds the outside bellows on the frame of the front washer. I then pushed the bellows inside of the drum of the washing machine in-order to get to the clamp that holds the bellows on the inside of the drum. To pull the clump I had to use a stubby screwdriver and socket drive to loosen the clamp. Once the clamp is loosen I was able to pull the bellows off, of the drum and out of the washing machine. Installation was the reverse of removal.
Water leaking past shut off valve (solenoid operated)
Inputs on your web site of other people who had replaced this valve assembly helped. Remove top cover from washer - three socket head screws on rear of machine, (need to move washer forward for access) Turn off both hot and cold manual shutoff vales on wall. Run washer to take water pressure off from hoses (turn on for water to turn on , and then turn washer off). Remove both hoses (mark/remember which side is hot/cold, as valve assembly has no markings), from valve assembly, had to use channel locks/adjustable wrench to remove nuts as they were really tight. Check to see if gaskets were OK, would have been nice, if these gaskets are supplied with new valve assembly. Remove screw which holds valve assembly to washer. Slide valve assembly slightly side ways to free it from bulkhead panel. Remove last hose assembly inside washer, attached to valve; remove four wires from solenoids. Keep track of wires (which solenoid). Replace valve, reconnect internal hoses and wires; install valve assemble on bulkhead panel; attach screw; reconnect hoses; turn on manual valves; check for leaks; briefly turn on washer, check for internal leaks; install cover; push back washer in place.
I had units stacked so I had to take the dryer off, pull 3 screws from back, slide cover back and the water valve is right there, easy to change. I have not had the problem since then.
disconect wayer inlet hoses.remove screws that hold the top cover. This will expose the water inlet valve. remove the defective valve and any other associated clamps,hose etc. test run for leaks.
Water spewing all through washer interior and floor.
Removed hot/cold water hoses from back of washer at water inlet valve. Pulled off top of washer by removing 3 screws at back of panel. Noted that water inlet valve had been damaged in move from storage. Pulled off 4 wires, 2 for hot and 2 for cold. Removed 1 screw holding inlet valve assembly to frame. Used pliers to release retainer ring on hose. Removed hose from valve outlet. Reversed process to install new valve.