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FH error code during wash
Ran diagnostics for this model (you can look for its service manual on the web which details how to do this). The diagnostics said the cold water inlet valve or the flow-meter were broken. To pin the issue down to one component, I switched the cold/hot water control cables going into the inlet valve assembly and switched the cold/hot water hoses. Ran diagnostics again and the cold water and flow meter passed but got a failure on the hot water inlet valve. This pointed to a bad cold-water inlet valve. I ordered a replacement at PartsSelect. Installation took less than ten minutes. Machine runs like a dream. Before all this I called a service center, and without even looking at the machine, they quoted no less than $300. But with a little reading and some sleuth work, I ended up paying only $70 for the part + S/H.
Like most folks, my daughter has tossed the shipping bolts after her puechase, I moved her the first time w/o any thought to it but commercial movers won't do that, they will chg. you to have it done and it's not cheap, akin to an appliance repair. This kit contains all four bolts/spacers, (2) upper and (2) lower. Hard to tell from the decription but a sweet gal on the help desk assured me of it. Got it fast and got them installed in minutes, easy to do and wrote a big note on the back of the washer to save them!! No idea why your owners book says "do not reuse".
1st I removed the front retaining ring. You do need to get down near the ground to see the retaining ring. I used two pairs of needle nosed pliers to pull the ring apart (which has a spring in the middle) and then removed the ring.
Then I pushed the bellows into the washing machine drum, pulled the water inlet valve from the bellows, and used a short flat blade screwdriver to remove the retaining band (upper right of the bellows) After doing this it was a simple matter to remove the whole unit.
I did find it was easier to remove the washing machine door.
The installation was a simple matter of reversing the above. I had no problems with this repair. I would STRONGLY suggest, unless you are one of those gifted 3 handed people, getting an assistant to push the outer retaining ring into place as you separate the spring.
Remove the lower front cover there are three small torx type screw. The pump is the very first thing you see. Have a wet and dry Vac available you will need it. The drain pump and the drain lines contain a lot of water. Unscrew the big white drain plug at the pump and clean up the water, remove the front small mounting screw and disconnect the two hoses in the back of the pump with pliers and follow the pre-printed steps in reverse. If your machine is more than six years old you will have to use a utility knife and remove a piece of plastic on the electrical connector that is from the washer wiring, if you force the connection on it will brake, look at the connection and the plug and attempt to plug it in before you install the pump. It is easy just be-aware of the connector.
I found a you tube video with step by step instructions. Very easy to follow. Repair would have been quicker had my kids not been at home. I had to have my boyfriend help me put on the outer bellow spring clamp, as I was not strong enough. Washer works great.
removed screws on front control panel. found info sheet. read that this part was correct. replaced the motor control unit tho saw no damage on old unit and it works fine now.
To verify it was the motor making the noise not the drum bearing I removed the belt and rotated both by hand to see which one made naoise - then I ordered the motor. To install the motor remove rear panel, slip belt off, remove 1 bolt holding motor in, carefully slide motor towards you until pivits disengage. Wires are ling enough to set motor on bottom of washer and rotate for easier access to connector. Install motor in reverse sequence.
door hook strike was broken half broke in the door the other half stayed in the lock i removed the one pcs from washer with pliers and on the door with a star wrench
1-Unplug washer 2-Remove the bottom of the front washer cover 3 screws 3-Locate pump and loosen pump drain cover turn to left just a little enough for water to start draining. 4- Suck-up water with wet/ dry vac. Remove 1 screw holding pump. 5- Flip pump electrical cover up and disconnect wiring from pump. 6- Remove 2 hose clamps. The outlet was not to hard to remove, but the intake was not easy to get the pliers on. 7- Install new pump. See instruction to install. I didn't have to remove any ribs to install the connector as in the instruction sheet that came with the new pump. Also I didn't think it was very clear instruction. 8- Last installing the spring clamps. The outlet went okay, but the inlet I never could get on. I could not get the pliers on the clamp. I fooled around at least 20 min. trying to get the clamp on. I went out and bought a 3/4 to 1 3/4 stainless hose clamp with the worm drive design. That is what took so long.You may want to get new hose clamps before starting. Other wise I did okay.
1) Removed back of washer 2) Removed nut holding pulley 3) Pulled pulley off shaft 4) Put new pulley on shaft 5) Replaced and tightened nut 6) Replaced belt on pulley 7) Replaced back panel 7) Washed pile of laundry
It took a few minutes to realize that the part slide into place instead of snapping in. In order to get the part to slide into place i put my head in the washer to hold the drum in place then with both hands slide the part into place.
remove 3 screws of top panel at rear. slide top to rear 1/2 inch and lift up. disconnect wire to flometer, remove clamps on hoses and remove, reverse to install. did not fix problem. ck'd screens at fill valves. ordered new fill valves--problem solved. solenoids must not have been opening up all the way.