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"dL" error code on display. Lid lock mechanism not working.
This was the second time I did this repair, so it looks like this mechanism lasts about 3 years. I found the video instructions on your website very helpful, with one major exception. On my Maytag Bravos XL machine, there are no clips on the front of the top plate to release by pushing in a putty knife. Rather, there are two vertical brackets on the back of the top plate that are loosened or removed, and then the top can be slid forward about an inch and lifted up.
Also, the tiny electrical connection plugs are secured by plastic clips on the sides of the receptacles. Those clips just need to be spread apart a little in order to unplug the connectors; i.e., don't pull too hard on those plugs, or look for a release lever on the plugs themselves.
Used shop vac to remove as much water as possible. Turned washing machine on side to access pump. Removed old pump. Installed new pump. Used nutdriver to attach three fasteners and pliers to attach clamps to hoses.
Replaced 4 suspension rods. Had to release washer top from body case by twisting putty knife between lid and body. Once released swung lid up and propped against wall to access suspension rods. Replaced all rods and reinstalled lid. Good test run, no unbalanced error.
A rat ate holes in several rubber elbows in our washer
I got the three rubber elbows to quickly (at an additional price). They were the correct part and fit exactly. I replaced the aggravating spring clamps with new radiator-type screw clamps which made the job easier and in my opinion better. Then I devised a little hardware cloth "fence" around the bottom to the washer to keep the rat out. The job is tough enough in that you must tip the washer forward to get at the lower elbows. Also probably a good idea to adjust the feet "in" as far as possible to minimize rodent access from the bottom.
The most difficult was to lift the top up. Releasing the clips was tough to push in and it broke some porcelain. The 3 screws on the plastic instrument cover was all that was required. Track the wires and remove the plug in and pull the wires through the access hole and misc clips, a Phillips screw driver removes the plastic switch .Simply place the new switch under the lid and the worst is done. Once the lid was up, 10 minutes and your done.
Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.
Had to fabricate a new top holder for rod and bottom was still working. So far working great Thank God , because they don’t make them like this anymore!
1st watch a video on replacement of this pump. My main issue was the guard I had to install and the correct way to put it in. I know I got it right. The pump is very noisy, loud! It pumps out just fine. Want to know if this is normal, Loud pump. Let me know. Thanks, Dave
fairly simple remove and put back in …I watched a video of a similar Maytag pump replace got some tips…the electoral connection is shielded by a pull up tab…so it was quite simple I got extra hose clamps in case?…didn’t need them
lifted top using putty knife to push back holding clips.secured top so it did not fall. moved basket to one corner and lifted the spring up, while it was lifted remove the plastic holding rings. Then push down on holding clips that are near bottom of side of basket and the suspension rod just eases out. do that for all 4 and you are done.
The washer would enter the spin cycle, but after starting to spin, would quit, and beep repeatedly. The fault code shown was DL. The manual cited DL as Door Lock malfunction. A check of the door lock switch suggested an internal problem. Sears offered the part at a far greater price, and shipping was several times more than PartSelect.com. PartSelect was chosen, and the part ordered on-line. Within two days the part arrived. Installation was simply a matter of lifting the top of the unit on which the door is supported. IT is done by inserting a narrow screwdriver into the separation, and pressing on the two metal springs holding the top in place. The old part was simple to remove by extracting two phillips head screws and removing the cable from the cable mounts underneath the top surface then threading the cable and plug back through the cable hole. Before that could be completed, the rear cover of the control panel was also removed, and after the plug of the defective switch was removed, the new cable was connected, and threaded back through in the reverse of the removal of the old switch, the phillips head screws, the control panel rear cover and returning the unit top to the resting position and snappin it into place. The Power ON check indicated that the problem fault code was cleared. The unit functions normally with the new switch. Hats off to PartSelect. The part was available in stock, and shipped promptly, and at substantially less cost than Sears.