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I removed the cover for the softener dispenser on the top of the agitator. Then reached in and removed the cover of the nut and washer which was very sticky and sealed with an o-ring. This took a bit of pressure. Then used a socket wrench with an extension to loosen the bolt and took the whole agitator out of the machine. Then I set the agitator on the floor and with a fine 12 inch long screw driver released the catches while turning and pulling the agitatior with my other hand and holding the lower agitatior on the floor with my feet. I then turned the upper part over and removed the cogs and holding mechanism. Then I reversed the process after replacing the cogs with the new part. 25 minutes total.
Disconnect electrical plug from the wall, disconnect drain hoses and tip washer forward remove belt hosing basket and then remove the electrical plug that contains seven wires connected to actuator then remove the two small screws. Then reverse the operation to stall the new part. Very easy.
When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Washer -Maytag Centennial- would NOT agitate. It would run through all cycles as indicated by the lights and even spin at the end, but never agitated. It also did not appeared to go into "sensing" mode at the start. Took a long time to move from "sensing" light to "wash" light. Did not hear or see a
There are a number of videos showing how to do this repair: >Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain. >Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom. Better than than just laying front of washer on floor. >Used a drop light to help see bottom. >Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut heads. >Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed back down. Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read. this part has been a problem with these washers. >Put Pulley Cover back on. >Reset washer upright. >Reconnected water and power. >Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse" light on and pushed "start" button. >Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin" light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle - "sensing" and in "wash". . Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.
I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.
The wash cycle made a loud grinding noise when it went from filling to wash.
I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained. Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet . Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them. Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine. Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver. Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub . Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench. Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place . Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) . Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut. Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart. Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear. Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
I needed the washer ASAP. I paid extra for the expedited shipping. The parts arrived as promised. I watched the on-line video. I read and followed the included instructions. Removed cap and nut. Pulled out part with "dogs", swapped new dogs and assembly. Re-installed components, I was wary from information gleaned from the video, which warned of proper orientation of "dogs", as they can be inserted backwards. Tightened bolt and re-installed cap. Presto! Repaired washing machine worked as good as new. My coffee didn't even get cold.
Unplugged washer, turn off water to washer, removed water lines from washer, pull washer away from wall, removed about 5 screws from top access panel and remove, used putty knife to release clips from both sides of front control panel and lay forward, removed three screws from valve, disconnect hose from valve. Reassemble in reverse order. Not a bad idea to run a little water into bucket from both supply line to remove any foreign material that may have let lose from shut off valve before reconnecting to washer.
Removed softener cup agitator cap and one bolt, lifted agitator out and replaced with new one... tightened bolt replaced cap and softener cup and away we go, done...
Popped off agitator cover discovered worn and broken 'dogs'. Decided to replace complete agitator assembly due to age of machine (25 + years). 7/16 socket, removed nut and agitator assembly, installed new assembly with included nut.
Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.
I ordered the new cogs but didn't want to wait the few days for them to arrive. So I decided to try and temporarily repair the old ones. After looking at the picture of the new ones on this site I realized that the teeth were just worn down. I took all four of them out and used a grinding disc to carve the teeth down deeper. They were not perfect. (I would recommend holding the teeth with a vise.) However, after reinstalling the cogs the machine worked perfect and that was two weeks ago. I'm not going to install the new ones until I have to.
