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Ice Maker stopped making ice
Replacing my old ice maker with the new ice maker that I bought through PartsSelect was fairly easy. The part came without any directions - so I am glad that I did a little research on PartSelect prior to ordering. I am not the most mechanically coordinated person - but even with my large hands pulling the old ice maker out and putting the new one in was simple. Only real problem was trying to snap the plug in and making sure that the connection was completely tight. With a side-by-side refrigerator - getting my hands and shoulders (I am a large man) far enough in to apply enough pressure to snap the connectors was a challenge. Within 30 minutes, my wife heard the ice maker making ice - I was a hero and I had saved about $150 in the labor I was quoted.
Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced. reassembled the pieces.
Steps to replace Whirlpool evaporator fan motor 1. Watch numerous DIY Youtube videos 2. Move frozen food to refrigerator section, close refrigerator door 3. Cut power to refrigerator 4. Remove all shelves and bins in freezer section 5. Back panel has two parts, a top and a bottom section 6. Unclip small shroud covering screw bolt in upper left corner holding top panel. Remove screw bolt 7. Gently pull and work top panel out 8. Remove screw bolts from all four corners in lower panel and remove bottom panel 9. Verify power has been turned off 10. Unclip grounding wire 11. Unclip evaporator fan motor from power 12. Remove whole cradle holding evaporator fan motor. Note orientation of cradle. Fan blade is slightly angled toward the back of freezer. In other models, the cradle may not be removeable. 13. Remove plastic fan with firm pull 14. Unclip bottom brace to remove evaporator fan motor 15. Replace old grommets in bottom brace and on top of evaporator fan motor with the new grommets 16. Install new evaporator in cradle and clip-in the bottom brace 17. Install new fan blade on motor 18. Place cradle with new evaporator fan motor back in freezer 19. Reclip power and ground wire 20. Turn on power and test if working correctly 21. Turn off power 22. Complete steps from 8 to 2 in reverse
Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,
The filter cap broke when something fell out of the freezer.
We popped out the new filter and replaced the cap with a twist. It was so easy. It is important to vaccum the front of the refrigerator for accumulating dust.
Lower Light Socket removed and Wires capped with wire nuts
My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.
Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!
Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!
I replaced this same ice maker a month before, if that long, using a part I found $40 cheaper from another site. Needless to say you get what you pay for, the existing part was not exactly the same as the original and leaked water all over the place. I removed the not so old icemaker by removing the flapper door and removing the harness cover then pulling out the existing icemaker followed by disconnecting the wiring harness. Now with the old icemaker removed I removed the bottom tray/shield from the existing ice maker by removing the three screws from it then attached the tray to the bottom of the new ice maker from PartSelect which did not come with the bottom tray/shield. Finally, I executed the removal process in reverse order to install the new ice maker.
I removed two small bolts that secure the flapper that keeps ice from falling out when you open the door, one bolt that holds a cosmetic cover for the wires and slid the icemanker forward. The only difficult part was removing the plug since it was high up, the wires were stiff and there's a release to push that locks the two plugs together. Once it was removed all was installed in the opposire order. The part I ordered had a slightly taller channel where the water refills so I had to trim it to allow the new icemaker to slide in without bending the fill nozzle. Other than that it was pretty easy.
1. Put pieces of wood under door to support it. 2. Unscrew three screws holding door hinge. 3. Disconnect water line. 4. Unscrew screw holding each cam. One to door and one to hinge. 5 Replace cams. 6. Retrieve plate with threaded holes behind frame that the hinge attaches to. 7. Use thin philips screwdriver through the hinge bracket, shim, frame and screw plate to align it for the other two screws. 8. Replace all three hinge screws. 9. Connect water line fitting. 10. Remove wood for door support. 11. Check door for smooth movement and strong pressure when closed.
Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.
