Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Ice Maker Timing was off
The Ice maker would not run through a cycle. It would fill with water and produce ice but would need a little help by pressing up on the ejector to run through its cycle. Otherwise, it would not bring the ice to the holding bend. Sometimes the water would not fill. The icemaker was making ice it just was not letting the ice maker run through its cycle so I figured it had to be the circuit board. I bought the circut board which was easy to install. 1) Turn off water line and unplug power. 2) Pop off front panel plate at ice cube select switch area. 3) Unscrew 4 screws that holds control panel housing in place. 4) Remove panel assembly by disconnecting two different wiring plugs. 5) Unscrew 2 screws that allows access to control circuit board at end cap. 6) Remove circuit board by sliding it out of the assembly housing. 7) Install new circuit control board in assemble housing and screw on end cap retainer. 8) Attach two electrical wiring plugs. 9) Install control board assemble housing into frig opening and secure with 4 screws. 10) Install front panel plate (pops on). 11) Plug in power and turn on water line.
Unplug the electrical power to the refridgerator, remove old valve, marking which electrical wire set goes to which solenoid valve. Cut the nut fasteners from the ice maker and front door water tubes. Leave the nut fastener on the supply line.
New valve - remove plastic shipping protection guard, remove rubber cap from supply connection, bend mounting bracket to a 90 degree bend, attach electrical wire reducers to the small wattage solenoid wires then to the solenoid, attach large wattage solenoid wires to the large solenoid, push ice maker tube into the small quick-connection(no nut fastener needed), push the front door water into the large quick-connection, finally mount valve asembly using same holes in frame as held the old valve assembly. Plug in the power. Solenoid valves may take an hour or so to operate.
I recommend taking a picture of any part before it is removed. Remove all screws. Use the diagram provided by this site for the dismantle of the ice bucket parts. I replaced the plate and ice auger. I found that my rusted screws for the plate would not fit the new plate, so I bought replacement screws at Home Depot. After I got all the blades off, I realized that I should have probably replaced a couple of them as well. Next time I decide to repair an item, I will totally inspect all parts before ordering. Order was shipped immediately. Postal Carrier showed me why he dropped off at another location which caused a delay of a couple of days. Not the senders problem. I had a hard time remembering just how the rod on the side was suppose to fit. I should have taken a picture. (laughing) I finally figured it out. My ice maker is as good as new. So happy I did this. My husband always says: " Just get a new refrigerator." I was raised to fix things until they just die. He was so impressed that I was able to follow the diagram and re-install the ice bucket. All is great. I will use this site again. They are a great company. I am sure I saved hundreds of dollars for a repairman who would have replaced the whole unit and not taken the time for the repair and replacement of parts. This was just "as easy as pie".
Shut water off to frig...remove cover from back...remove one screw holding solenoid valve. Remove color coded clip on wiring from valve...noting each for replacement. Remove ice machine quick connect water tube, then water dispenser quick connect water tube...the two tubes are different size...so no confusion. Then simply reverse procedure for new installlation.
This part on refrigerator went out, wouldn't dispense water.
I removed the back cover on the refrigerator. Unbolted the unit. First of all I unpluged the refrigerator. Took off the two electrical connections and removed the input and output water lines. I then reversed this process when I installed the new part. It was real easy.
Turned off power, removed cover from Ice maker, checked resistance across thermostat for zero (read open), all other switches read proper value (when activated). Ordered and received thermostat. Removed Ice Maker from freezer, removed two screws holding ice tray to Control Assembly. Removed Thermostat and replaced with new one. Applied Silicone Sealant to face of Thermostat for adhesion to ice tray when assembled. Remounted Ice Tray to Control Assembly and remounted in freezer. Works Great...
This Valve Has 2 Different Size Water Lines Going In To It And They Are Different Diameters.Each Has Its Own Collar That Locks The Lines Into It. Make Sure That You Put The Right Size Collar Over The Line Before You Insert It Into The Valve, Because Once You Put The Line In You Cant Pull It Back Out Without Messing Up The Valve. Make Sure It Is Right Because You Only Get One Shot At It.
Moving the refrigerator into my new (very old) house we had to remove the doors which resulted in a crimped hose and union
Remove lower front panel, disconnect damaged union from water hose under freezer door, replace with new union, tighten and reattach front panel. No more water coming from under the unit. Ice maker and dispenser features returned to working order!
easy as 1.2.3 remove and replace before even thinking. just to let you know i also do this for a living but it is one of the most difficult thing when you have to stop and fix your own
The auger was chromed steel. It rusted causing rust to get on ice.
It's a good idea to take closeup pictures, that will eliminate guessing when you put it back together. There was no instructions. I was happy to see GE knew there was a problem with the chrome auger. The replacement is STAINLESS STEEL.
It took me about 15 minutes to complete the repair, 1st I emptied the ice maker, then I removed 4 screws from the rear of the ice maker tray and took the plastic piece off of the auger. I reversed the steps and put it back together.
After gaining access thto the Evaporator Coil, lots of disassembly, I was able to cut the foam (Heater Trough) and remove it first (in pieces). This allowed room to lower the Condensate pan and slide it out to replace the Heating Coil, which was also purchased from you. Don't forget to disconnect the drain hose. Because of the "V" shape of the pan, the rear portion of the foam trough had to be removed to allow reassembly. I still have to verify whether the Defrost Timer is working properly, but the unit is coolingto proper temperatures (Freezer and Refrigerator).
First I turned the refrigerator and water line off. Then moved to the freezer section, followed the directions, removed the two screws. Directions state to not remove them but I had to in this case. Unplugged the ice maker and removed it from the freezer. I installed the two mounting screws then tried to plug the electrical connection back in but had to use the adaptor cord furnished in the kit. The cord was a little long but I tucked it in and mounted the ice maker. Turned it on then turned the refrigerator and water back on and in a few hours had ice! Very easy to do!
as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.