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refrigerator and freezer stopped working
I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.
Replaced icemaker assembly. Only 3 Phillips screws to remove the old assembly. Pretty much an exact swap. Was easy to replace but the connecting cable on the new replacement assembly wasn't very easy to make fit. Had to force it into a location that would be out of the way and allow everything to operate properly. That connecting cable should be more flexible and adapt to the fridge a little more friendly.
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.
instalation was very easy - but the part was 3/4 inch to long and a 1/32 inch to wide.Trimmed it with the "faithfull" Dremel and it works!The instalation part of the "job" was less then 10 min.
Ice maker arm disconnected from frame causing problems.
The icemaker arm disconnected from the metal frame. This caused the icemaker to cycle and the heater to come on and stay on until the plastic parts melted causing a mess and stink. This action melted the ice and then the water fell through the frozen items in the freezer and refreezed in the lower portion. OK, I remover the dead icemaker and tossed it away. I installed the new icemaker and the wiring harness didn't fit right (way to long). I retrieved the old icemaker and removed the wiring harness from it. I removerd the new ice maker and installed the old wiring harness to the new icemaker. I then installed the new icemaker, plugged it in and turned on the power. No water, I ordered the dual solenoid water valve, installed it with difficulty (another story) the turned on the power. I reinstalled the ice bin and found it didn't fit. The icemaker was to low and couldn't be adjusted, 1/4" higher would have been great. I shoved in the bin anyway, I was out of ice for my scotch, and it started making ice.
Water leaking and freezing everywhere. Weird shaped ice cubes, more like chunks which jambed the dispenser.
First removed the two screws that holds the old ice maker in place. Unplugged it. The freezer compartment was too narrow to allow the unit to slide out or turn in any other direction. Had to also remove the two front screws from the left side ice bin track and swing it down. The door opening was also too tight. Scratched the plastic door jamb putting the new unit in but other than that all is well and functioning well.
Remove ice maker out of fridge; remove 3 screws replace defective part re-install all components 30 minutes later " magic ice again. Very easy repair most important low cost. Thanks "Parts Select"
heavy frost buildup in ice dispenser chute and door
After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.
I got the wrong switch before so just need to put the right 1 in. Super easy, pop off old, plug in new, click back into place. Done. REALLY REALLY EASY for anyone to do
Replaced evaporator fan motor, and this solved the whistling noise that had developed. Reviewed and followed the removal and installation instruction video as closely as possible. This was very helpful, with a few additions. For the model PS123NGPBBB GE refrigerator/freezer, there were a few differences from the video. There a was an additional cover panel that was positioned vertically at the back of the freezer compartment below the auger motor assembly. It was necessary to remove this cover (4 screws) to gain access to the auger motor cover screws. The unit also has a different light configuration with 2 lights. I found it helpful to remove these light bulbs and the corresponding light fixtures in order to remove the evaporator motor assembly. As mentioned in the video, it was necessary to cut the 4 wires from the wire harness of the new motor, and use butt end connectors to reattach these wires to the corresponding wires in the unit. Total job took between 1 and 2 hours, and the motor change solved the noise problem.
Did the repair just as the instruction said, once I read it. The part I didn't read was that if the plug was under the ice maker, you had to take the wire out of the clip on the side. So, had to dismount ice maker, unclip wire, remount maker, plug it in. Still under 30 minutes. Thank you.